So alas my travels have come to an end. I have greatly enjoyed having you all along on my journey. I have great aspirations for the information contained in my head and in this blog to help facilitate other travelers. China is an amazing place and I met so many wonderful people. If you feel inclinded to visit, I would encourage you to go. It is possible to backpack throughout China, but it is not easy particularly when you leave the beaten path. But it is do able. Your trip may be filled with some difficulties (I know mine was) but the amazing magic of the Middle Kingdom will make up for it, I guarentee it!
If you want to see what I have been up to in my time since China, come visit me at my new home where I can be found Walking the Streets of Georgetown.
Friday, August 29, 2008
Monday, August 18, 2008
Homeward Bound!
Baring some crisis I am only 17 hours away from home. One nine hour plane ride from Hong Kong to LA and a short hop to Seattle later and it will all be a memory and an incredible memory at that. I can't believe it is over already. This hasn't been just a journey across the middle kingdom but a journey of growth and self discovery. I look forward to seeing you all soon.
Thursday, August 14, 2008
Olympics!!!
Well the day is here and I am writing this post from the team dressage olympic event in Hong Kong. Again I am humbled that in my life I would be able to attend the Olympics. Currently after two riders team Germany leads. Will update.
Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone with SprintSpeed
Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone with SprintSpeed
Monday, August 11, 2008
Look at them Go!
Michael Phelps and the American men's relay (4x100m) came from a full body length behind at the last turn to outtouched France at wall to win the gold medal by 8 hundreths of a second, to set a new world record by over 4 seconds! Amazing, simply amazing to watch! Okay well they beat the 15 hour old world record set by the American "B" team last night (including Nathan Adrian a Bremerton, Washington native ), but still... And Phelps has overcome what will probably be the hardest race in his bid for 8 golds. And hats off to unknown 3-time Olympian Lezak who swam probably the best 50 meters of his life.
In other news Russian and Georgia female athletes won silver and bronze respectively in a pistol event today (China won gold). They embraced on the medal stand as a sign of national unity.
Georgia's Nino Salukvadze, with her Russian rival Natalia Paderina sitting next to her said, "There should be no hatred among athletes and people."I hope you are enjoying watching the first days of the Olympics, I know I am. Currently I am enjoying a very tight beach volleyball game between Belgium and China. I am getting more and more excited about attending the Equestrian events in three days time.
In other news, I am now in Guangzhou and have checked back in to the hostel on Shamian Island. Ironically for my last night in China I am sleeping in the same bed as I did on my first night. I can't believe this is my last day in China, that tomorrow I leave... I'm going to try and pull myself away for the tv to go buy my train ticket to Hong Kong.
In other news, I am now in Guangzhou and have checked back in to the hostel on Shamian Island. Ironically for my last night in China I am sleeping in the same bed as I did on my first night. I can't believe this is my last day in China, that tomorrow I leave... I'm going to try and pull myself away for the tv to go buy my train ticket to Hong Kong.
Saturday, August 9, 2008
One World, One Dream
I awoke this morning in the same world that I went to sleep in last night, still stunned at yesterday's multiple news headlines. Overnight I recieved several anonymous comments relating to my last post. I welcome their comments and their points of view. It is only in dialogue and empathy developed through shared understanding that we can remove these headlines from the world's newspapers. Personally, I feel one of the most amazing things about blogs and technology in general is that they open us up to discussions we would never have been able to have otherwise. So I want to take a minute to clarify my point of view and respond to theirs. As a reader, your opinions are fully welcome.
Two days ago the world sat watching the grand pagentry of the Olympic opening ceremony, where fireworks were launched from 60 different sites across Beijing, and millions of dollars were spent in a lavish show that brought the world together if only for four hours. But across the continent the sound of explosions also rang out, and this time they were accompanied by screams of fear, not delight. And so in Beijing and around the world we will continue to speak of peace, but we are reminded whether it is down the street or half a world away, this world that we all call home is as unstable as ever.
For the most part I have felt perfectly safe in China (sans my wallet being stolen), and the Chinese people have been extremely hospitable, sometimes overly. I don't believe the Americans were targeted for being American, but perhaps for being Westerners and I believe that this incident was an exception to the rule in Chinese security. China's President has spoken repeatedly about the fact that security during the Olympics is Beijing's highest priority and in my travels this summer I have experienced China's mighty security arm first hand. I can tell you that it exists and exists in force. But that also doesn't change the fact that an American is dead, that a Chinese man is dead, really that anyone is dead.
Sadly on this otherwise joyous occasion we are reminded that we live in a world of unpredictability; where no matter how you prepare, or try to prevent, if someone wants to inflict terror they will find a way. The Olympics are a symbol of peace, unity, diversity, and acceptance and as such they remain a huge target. We know from history this to be the case, just look at the kidnappings at Munich or the bomb that exploded in Atlanta in 1996.
I appreciate the points of view that were expressed, particularly in the fourth comment, that the underlying issues at play in this situation should be dealt with and that the area has suffered much oppression. In no way am I taking sides, I don't have the breadth of understanding needed to do so, but I think my comments, however, were to say that there are many more options available to be used before bombs should be dropped. War should always be a last resort. Lao-Tzu (Laozi) one of China's most famous philosophers said it best when he said "the supreme excellency is winning without waging a war," because in waging war you will always lose in some capacity.
I whole-heartedly agree with Lao-tzu. I think sometimes we forget the devastation that comes from war. Queen Noor, wrote so elegantly of the repercussions of the First Gulf War on her neighboring country of Jordon that as I heard the news I could see in my minds eye the problems to come, the refugees, the economic stagnation, and the sheer terror affecting the people that will come with this war. Needless to say, I am shocked that as the Russian Prime Minister Putin was smiling and waving to his athletes marching proudly into the stadium he knew that the Russian tanks were rolling into South Ossetia, the disputed territory of Georgia.
So as the games continue we will mourn. We will mourn the senseless loss of life both Todd Bachman's and his attacker Tang Yongming, we will grieve with their friends and family, we will stand in dismay with those families who lives are being torn apart by war, and we will reflect on the fact that peace is both fragile and elusive, forever hanging just out of our grasp. We will have to do this all while the Olympic sized illusion of peace crumbles around us. But I for one will not let it deter me. For I believe that just like the world's athletes who must overcome many obstacles as they strive forward towards their goals of Olympic medals, we too should strive to medal in the event of peace. After all the motto of these games is "One World, One Dream!"
Two days ago the world sat watching the grand pagentry of the Olympic opening ceremony, where fireworks were launched from 60 different sites across Beijing, and millions of dollars were spent in a lavish show that brought the world together if only for four hours. But across the continent the sound of explosions also rang out, and this time they were accompanied by screams of fear, not delight. And so in Beijing and around the world we will continue to speak of peace, but we are reminded whether it is down the street or half a world away, this world that we all call home is as unstable as ever.
For the most part I have felt perfectly safe in China (sans my wallet being stolen), and the Chinese people have been extremely hospitable, sometimes overly. I don't believe the Americans were targeted for being American, but perhaps for being Westerners and I believe that this incident was an exception to the rule in Chinese security. China's President has spoken repeatedly about the fact that security during the Olympics is Beijing's highest priority and in my travels this summer I have experienced China's mighty security arm first hand. I can tell you that it exists and exists in force. But that also doesn't change the fact that an American is dead, that a Chinese man is dead, really that anyone is dead.
Sadly on this otherwise joyous occasion we are reminded that we live in a world of unpredictability; where no matter how you prepare, or try to prevent, if someone wants to inflict terror they will find a way. The Olympics are a symbol of peace, unity, diversity, and acceptance and as such they remain a huge target. We know from history this to be the case, just look at the kidnappings at Munich or the bomb that exploded in Atlanta in 1996.
I appreciate the points of view that were expressed, particularly in the fourth comment, that the underlying issues at play in this situation should be dealt with and that the area has suffered much oppression. In no way am I taking sides, I don't have the breadth of understanding needed to do so, but I think my comments, however, were to say that there are many more options available to be used before bombs should be dropped. War should always be a last resort. Lao-Tzu (Laozi) one of China's most famous philosophers said it best when he said "the supreme excellency is winning without waging a war," because in waging war you will always lose in some capacity.
I whole-heartedly agree with Lao-tzu. I think sometimes we forget the devastation that comes from war. Queen Noor, wrote so elegantly of the repercussions of the First Gulf War on her neighboring country of Jordon that as I heard the news I could see in my minds eye the problems to come, the refugees, the economic stagnation, and the sheer terror affecting the people that will come with this war. Needless to say, I am shocked that as the Russian Prime Minister Putin was smiling and waving to his athletes marching proudly into the stadium he knew that the Russian tanks were rolling into South Ossetia, the disputed territory of Georgia.
So as the games continue we will mourn. We will mourn the senseless loss of life both Todd Bachman's and his attacker Tang Yongming, we will grieve with their friends and family, we will stand in dismay with those families who lives are being torn apart by war, and we will reflect on the fact that peace is both fragile and elusive, forever hanging just out of our grasp. We will have to do this all while the Olympic sized illusion of peace crumbles around us. But I for one will not let it deter me. For I believe that just like the world's athletes who must overcome many obstacles as they strive forward towards their goals of Olympic medals, we too should strive to medal in the event of peace. After all the motto of these games is "One World, One Dream!"
War, Terror, and the Olympics
The euphopric high of the opening ceremonies has begun to wain; a Chinese man from Hangzhou attacked two Americans in Beijing today, killing one and injuring another. Their Chinese tour guide was also stabbed before the attacker committed suicide. The Americans were family members of a US coach and former US Olympian athlete. While I am sure this was an isolated event where mental health issues probably came into play, I would not be surprised if this is the olny "incident" before the closing ceremonies in 18 days.
Historically the Olympics were a period when cease fires were temporarily called between nations at war. So the news about the attacks in Beijing as well as the news of war between Russia and Georgia over the territory and annexation of South Ossetia shocks me.
Maybe it is because I have just finished reading Queen Noor al Hussein of Jordon's autobiography called Leap of Faith (best book I've read all year and does a great job of characterizing the Arab point of view in the Middle East conflict), but this news about war really tugs at my heart. I do not fully know the circumstances and I am not going to begin to characterize or pick sides, but I do know there were most likely options before bombs were dropped. So I find myself saddened greatly by today's news reports, but I am not scared for my safety, at least not yet.
Historically the Olympics were a period when cease fires were temporarily called between nations at war. So the news about the attacks in Beijing as well as the news of war between Russia and Georgia over the territory and annexation of South Ossetia shocks me.
Maybe it is because I have just finished reading Queen Noor al Hussein of Jordon's autobiography called Leap of Faith (best book I've read all year and does a great job of characterizing the Arab point of view in the Middle East conflict), but this news about war really tugs at my heart. I do not fully know the circumstances and I am not going to begin to characterize or pick sides, but I do know there were most likely options before bombs were dropped. So I find myself saddened greatly by today's news reports, but I am not scared for my safety, at least not yet.
Thursday, August 7, 2008
Jiuzhaigou and the Earthquake
I am currently in Northern Sichuan and to get here we had to pass through the area where the 8.0 earthquake struck back in May. Most of the towns we passed had faired well, but had buildings yhsy were in various states of repair and some buildings looked like they had been knocked down as there would be piles of bricks where a house or store once stood. Blue "relief" tents were packed into any available space. A bridge had collapsed into the river at one point and we drove over a one lane temporarily constructed bridge down river. The area continues to have aftershocks (though none that we have felt) and there was a large 6.0 aftershock last week.
Not only did the earthquake topple buildings and kill over 90,000 people (70,000 dead, 20,000 still listed as missing). It continues to do economic damage to the region. We are staying in a resort area near a nature reserve called Jiuzhaigou. This area is absolutely beautiful and while they experienced an average of 6,000 to 7,000 visitors a day before the quake, the number is probably hovering around 200 to 300 at the moment, many are only up for the day. Many hotels and restaurants are closed. The ones that are still here have given enormous discounts.
For this reason we (me and three other Americans who stayed at the same hostel as me in Chengdu) decided to stay at the five star Sheraton Hotel here. We are sharing a double room that is normally listed at 1200 yuan a night, for only 600 and this includes a 65 yuan all you can eat breakfast buffet for each person. The hotel also has a pool and the other amenities you would find in a five star hotel. The best part about the hotel is it has a restaurant. We would have stayed at the hostel (150 yuan a room/300 total a night on the other side of town but there were no restaurants open or any other hotels open nearby. It was a ghost town over there. So the four of us are packed into the room, but it is like a giant slumber party and we ate really well for breakfast.
Lunch today is a completely different story. We stopped at a local restaurant for food and had a hairy cow (yak) and mushroom soup, chicken and green pepper dish, eggplant and pepper dish, and rice. Shortly after the food came a fight broke out outside. We watched as a man grabed a woman's shirt, she hit him with a bottle, blood gushed from his forehead. He would not let go of her, then he tried to swing his own bottle at her. She pulled away but her shirt ripped open as she fell and then she went at him again. It was better than tv. Sadly no one really intervened, though eventually they were seperated. We finished eating, then they brought the bill and they wanted 158 yuan!!! We then proceeded to have a fight with the restaurant owners over the fact that it was way, way, way too expensive, I personally think it shouldn't have been more than 60. Thankfully no bottles were swung, we settled on 111 yuan and finally walked away. Now about two hours later our entire group is feeling a bit sick... the food just didn't settle well.
I will stay here in Jiuzhaigou two more nights. Tomorrow we will go see the nature reserve and in the evening come back and watch the openning ceremonies for the Olympics. The following morning we will all pile on a bus out of town. I will head back to Chengdu and do Pandas and Leshan (Giant Buddha) the following day, then the next day it is on to Guangzhou and then Hong Kong. All else is good here, hope it is good for you too.
Not only did the earthquake topple buildings and kill over 90,000 people (70,000 dead, 20,000 still listed as missing). It continues to do economic damage to the region. We are staying in a resort area near a nature reserve called Jiuzhaigou. This area is absolutely beautiful and while they experienced an average of 6,000 to 7,000 visitors a day before the quake, the number is probably hovering around 200 to 300 at the moment, many are only up for the day. Many hotels and restaurants are closed. The ones that are still here have given enormous discounts.
For this reason we (me and three other Americans who stayed at the same hostel as me in Chengdu) decided to stay at the five star Sheraton Hotel here. We are sharing a double room that is normally listed at 1200 yuan a night, for only 600 and this includes a 65 yuan all you can eat breakfast buffet for each person. The hotel also has a pool and the other amenities you would find in a five star hotel. The best part about the hotel is it has a restaurant. We would have stayed at the hostel (150 yuan a room/300 total a night on the other side of town but there were no restaurants open or any other hotels open nearby. It was a ghost town over there. So the four of us are packed into the room, but it is like a giant slumber party and we ate really well for breakfast.
Lunch today is a completely different story. We stopped at a local restaurant for food and had a hairy cow (yak) and mushroom soup, chicken and green pepper dish, eggplant and pepper dish, and rice. Shortly after the food came a fight broke out outside. We watched as a man grabed a woman's shirt, she hit him with a bottle, blood gushed from his forehead. He would not let go of her, then he tried to swing his own bottle at her. She pulled away but her shirt ripped open as she fell and then she went at him again. It was better than tv. Sadly no one really intervened, though eventually they were seperated. We finished eating, then they brought the bill and they wanted 158 yuan!!! We then proceeded to have a fight with the restaurant owners over the fact that it was way, way, way too expensive, I personally think it shouldn't have been more than 60. Thankfully no bottles were swung, we settled on 111 yuan and finally walked away. Now about two hours later our entire group is feeling a bit sick... the food just didn't settle well.
I will stay here in Jiuzhaigou two more nights. Tomorrow we will go see the nature reserve and in the evening come back and watch the openning ceremonies for the Olympics. The following morning we will all pile on a bus out of town. I will head back to Chengdu and do Pandas and Leshan (Giant Buddha) the following day, then the next day it is on to Guangzhou and then Hong Kong. All else is good here, hope it is good for you too.
Monday, August 4, 2008
In Sichuan. Plan for the Rest of the Trip.
Things have calmed down and there appears to be a light at the end of the tunnel. I have money on my pocket, I saw a doctor, I have a roof over my head and I just ate a brownie. I am still not yet willing to get into the horror story that is the last week, but I promise I will. After all of this, I have decided I will spend my last two China weeks in Sichuan, Guangzhou, Hong Kong, and Macau.
Today - Low Key Day (its raining) and I want to upload some photos for ya'll
Tomorrow - See the Olympic Torch relay, see Dufu's Cottage, and maybe some other things in town.
6th - Take the bus up to Jiuzhaigou in Northern Sichuan, arrive early evening
7th - Trek around Jiuzhaigou Nature Reserve
8th - Take the Bus back to Chengdu, watch Olympic Opening Ceremonies on TV in the evening
9th - Visit Pandas and Leshan
10th - Train to Guangzhou
11th - Day in Guangzhou - Buy Souviners
12th - Morning Train or Bus to Hong Kong, pick up Olympic Tickets, visit Victoria Peak
13th - Hong Kong Disney - which should be busy as hell
14th - Olympic Day!
15th - Macau for the day and night
16th - Return to Hong Kong
17th - More Olympics!
18th - Flight Home from Hong Kong by way of San Francisco
18th - Still the 18th - arrive in Seattle
There are other places is China I would love to visit including the neighboring Yunnan and Guilin but I have decided to simplify my schedule as much as possible. Plus I want to build in the buffer day to pick up my tickets in Hong Kong as they must be picked up by noon on the 13th.
Today - Low Key Day (its raining) and I want to upload some photos for ya'll
Tomorrow - See the Olympic Torch relay, see Dufu's Cottage, and maybe some other things in town.
6th - Take the bus up to Jiuzhaigou in Northern Sichuan, arrive early evening
7th - Trek around Jiuzhaigou Nature Reserve
8th - Take the Bus back to Chengdu, watch Olympic Opening Ceremonies on TV in the evening
9th - Visit Pandas and Leshan
10th - Train to Guangzhou
11th - Day in Guangzhou - Buy Souviners
12th - Morning Train or Bus to Hong Kong, pick up Olympic Tickets, visit Victoria Peak
13th - Hong Kong Disney - which should be busy as hell
14th - Olympic Day!
15th - Macau for the day and night
16th - Return to Hong Kong
17th - More Olympics!
18th - Flight Home from Hong Kong by way of San Francisco
18th - Still the 18th - arrive in Seattle
There are other places is China I would love to visit including the neighboring Yunnan and Guilin but I have decided to simplify my schedule as much as possible. Plus I want to build in the buffer day to pick up my tickets in Hong Kong as they must be picked up by noon on the 13th.
Sunday, August 3, 2008
Your thoughts and prayers are needed!
"In a dry and weary land, You are my water." Fitting that I have spent the last two weeks in the Gobi and Talamakan Deserts, this song has been playing through my head for days and during this time I have found myself taking comfort in these words. For the last seven days I have found myself not in an actual desert but a spiritual one where I faced one hurdle after another, each larger then the last. Needless to say it has been an extremely difficult and stressful time. Now is not the time or the place to share the details, but I am asking you all to keep me in your thoughts and prayers: currently I am physically and emotionally exhausted.
At the moment I am in Chengdu, Sichuan with a roof over my head and amazing people who are planning and working on my behalf in Seattle. Keep them in your prayers as well that God will continue to open doors and heal my body while I rest.
In times of despair it is important to be thankful... so in no particular order: I am thankful for my mom, who talked me out of the bottom of the hole this afternoon when I didn't know what to do; my father for his swift action, worry, and for paying my phone bill; my blackberry for working in China; the hostel staff who said I could pay for my room at the end of my stay; the Americans on the plane who reassured me that it would be alright; the Wongs, Lynne, Jeff and the entire Overlake Community who is rallying around me thousands of miles away; the stranger in the Urumqi airport who gave me 300 yuan; and the girl in the hostel who also gave me money to get to the airport, and the two Israelis who bought me dinner. Finally for God, for quieting my heart, for planting the seed for help before I ever left Seattle, but mostly for opening the way to a refuge from the storm.
At the moment I am in Chengdu, Sichuan with a roof over my head and amazing people who are planning and working on my behalf in Seattle. Keep them in your prayers as well that God will continue to open doors and heal my body while I rest.
In times of despair it is important to be thankful... so in no particular order: I am thankful for my mom, who talked me out of the bottom of the hole this afternoon when I didn't know what to do; my father for his swift action, worry, and for paying my phone bill; my blackberry for working in China; the hostel staff who said I could pay for my room at the end of my stay; the Americans on the plane who reassured me that it would be alright; the Wongs, Lynne, Jeff and the entire Overlake Community who is rallying around me thousands of miles away; the stranger in the Urumqi airport who gave me 300 yuan; and the girl in the hostel who also gave me money to get to the airport, and the two Israelis who bought me dinner. Finally for God, for quieting my heart, for planting the seed for help before I ever left Seattle, but mostly for opening the way to a refuge from the storm.
Tuesday, July 29, 2008
How far can you walk into the woods?
The title of this post is an old question. Think about it a minute... do you know? The answer is halfway, because after that one would be walking out.
I feel like I have reached that point. Since leaving Seattle 44 days ago I have been heading somewhere, whether conscious or not I wanted to reach Xinjiang, and today at 1:00 in the afternoon as we left the Kubukul lake (a day earlier than planned - but that is the story for a future post) I realized that no longer was I heading somewhere, but now I am slowly working my way back.
That is not to say that the trip back won't be adventurous or filled with its own stories and amazing experiences, but just that it is a different feeling. A feeling that can only be characterized with knowing that this trip is coming to an end. I only have 2 more weeks in China and those are jammed packed with a visit to Hami to see the eclipse, a visit to Chengdu in Sichuan to see the Olympic torch relay and hopefully see Jiazhaigou Nature Reserve, followed by less than a week in Yunnan.
It is then a week in Hong Kong and Macau for the Olympics and then home. Before I know it I will be sitting at a desk in a classroom on Georgetown's campus and this trip will be a memory.
But what I have seen and learned first hand will characterize my final year at Georgetown. It has changed not only my opinion on the modernity-traditionalism argument, but how I view the nation of China as a whole, and how Beijing makes decisions. I feel like my opinions are no longer based on the opinion of the multitude of authors I have read, but rather on my own experiences. In the end there is nothing more valuable and with that knowledge, I feel stronger and more certain in my opinions.
I feel like I have reached that point. Since leaving Seattle 44 days ago I have been heading somewhere, whether conscious or not I wanted to reach Xinjiang, and today at 1:00 in the afternoon as we left the Kubukul lake (a day earlier than planned - but that is the story for a future post) I realized that no longer was I heading somewhere, but now I am slowly working my way back.
That is not to say that the trip back won't be adventurous or filled with its own stories and amazing experiences, but just that it is a different feeling. A feeling that can only be characterized with knowing that this trip is coming to an end. I only have 2 more weeks in China and those are jammed packed with a visit to Hami to see the eclipse, a visit to Chengdu in Sichuan to see the Olympic torch relay and hopefully see Jiazhaigou Nature Reserve, followed by less than a week in Yunnan.
It is then a week in Hong Kong and Macau for the Olympics and then home. Before I know it I will be sitting at a desk in a classroom on Georgetown's campus and this trip will be a memory.
But what I have seen and learned first hand will characterize my final year at Georgetown. It has changed not only my opinion on the modernity-traditionalism argument, but how I view the nation of China as a whole, and how Beijing makes decisions. I feel like my opinions are no longer based on the opinion of the multitude of authors I have read, but rather on my own experiences. In the end there is nothing more valuable and with that knowledge, I feel stronger and more certain in my opinions.
Saturday, July 26, 2008
A not so perfect, but practically so Day.
Today is a beautiful day in Kashgar, 29* and sunny. A day to rivial a Seattle summer day. I think it has had me in a great mood today. Even though it has been overcoming one obstacle after another.
This morning I emailed elong.com who I booked my airline ticket to Chengdu with, because i needed to cahnge the date of travel if I am going to go see the eclipse. The number I was given by elong was not the actual number and they gave me a new number. I called the new number only to have written it down wrong, so I had to call back the first number... well you get the picture. We worked out the details and the customer service representative told me I had to go out to the Airport.
So I asked the Fuyuan at the internet bar how to get to the airport. I took off on the walk to the bus only to realize that I had left my travel guide with all my flight notations at the internet bar, so needless to say I had to return. I got to the bus stop only to never find bus 29 to the airport (turns out bus 2 goes there). So I flagged a taxi and it cost 15 yuan. I didn't have him wait 'cause who knows how long it would take.
There are only a couple flights a day so the airport was dead and they had to go find someone to operate the x-ray machine before they would let me enter the building. It took a good 20 minutes for them to find my e-ticket in the computer, after calling the central office in Beijing. Finally after close to 45 minutes I had a new e-ticket number. But by then the line of taxis out front was gone. I asked how to get back to the city and they informed me of the bus. But when I got there the attendent was busy cleaning and wiping down the bus. I am pretty sure she didn't speak Mandarin, because I couldn't get her to tell me what time the bus was planning on leaving.
The driver was fast asleep under a nearby tree.
Thankfully a taxi finally showed up and I rode it back towards the city for 11 yuan. I wanted to stop at the international bus station to buy a ticket out to Kabakul lake. Which is on the highway to Pakistan so I went to the international bus station. They sent me to the long distance bus station across town but since I am a foreigner they will not sell me a ticket. In the beginning they said there was no bus, but when I pressed them they said there was a bus but they wouldn't sell me a ticket. This is because it is a second-grade pass which in Chinese speak means for locals only. I have talked to two travelcompanies and one has an overnight trip for 640 yuan, and the other has a one day car rental with driver for 880 yuan. I am going to look around town somemore so we will see.
I am hoping I can hop a ride in a mini-bus. I would love to make it all the way up the pass, but it doesn't sound like it is going to happen. I might we able to get to the lake, where I want to spend two nights. We will see.
I feel like I have faced as much adversity as I did yesterday and yet I have a completely different attitude. Maybe it is the perfect summer day or maybe it is the fact that I am now official 22. Who knows but I am in no rush today and so I have taken everything in stride, which I am very proud of. Somewhere between Hong Kong and here I have lost the crazy pace with which I do things in DC. I have become a lot more relaxed and I am surprisingly enjoying it. For the most part I don't know what the date is (only when I have already bought tickets somewhere or it is my birthday) and I have absolutely no hope in telling you what day of the week it is.
I first noticed the change in Dunhuang when my travel companion was go go go and I just wanted to take the leisure scenic route. Maybe it is because I only have a vague plan that I have relaxed a little. Well see if I can keep up this new pace upon returning home.
Oh yeah, I wanted to share another story from my birthday yesterday. When I was walking from the bus station to the hotel, I heard the faint refrains of song growing closer and closer. It was a familiar song and then I knew what it was.... the song was "Happy Birthday!" It was coming from teh water truck that sprays down the dust on the roads. It could have been a complete coincidence that the truck played Happy Birthday, but I heard another truck today and it was playing a different song. I think maybe God knew what I needed, knew that yesterday I was feeling a bit lonely and missing my family. He's amazing isn't he?
In fact I have been thinking about God a lot on this trip. Him and I are in the middle of a fight as I don't particularly agree on some of what the bible teaches if taken literally. So we aren't really speaking at the moment. But I will be walking through sand dunes or past tiny villages, and wonder if the places Jesus travelled through were similar. I spent 4 hours in the desert He spent 40 days, I can't imagine. When I take off my sandles at night, I am reminded of the story of the washing of feet and I comprehend it on a different level. I never thought that in a place where God is so absent, I would find myself being pulled toward Him.
Don't know what I am going to do this evening, maybe look at this problem of reaching the lake a little more and enjoy a nice cold beer on a perfect summer night.
This morning I emailed elong.com who I booked my airline ticket to Chengdu with, because i needed to cahnge the date of travel if I am going to go see the eclipse. The number I was given by elong was not the actual number and they gave me a new number. I called the new number only to have written it down wrong, so I had to call back the first number... well you get the picture. We worked out the details and the customer service representative told me I had to go out to the Airport.
So I asked the Fuyuan at the internet bar how to get to the airport. I took off on the walk to the bus only to realize that I had left my travel guide with all my flight notations at the internet bar, so needless to say I had to return. I got to the bus stop only to never find bus 29 to the airport (turns out bus 2 goes there). So I flagged a taxi and it cost 15 yuan. I didn't have him wait 'cause who knows how long it would take.
There are only a couple flights a day so the airport was dead and they had to go find someone to operate the x-ray machine before they would let me enter the building. It took a good 20 minutes for them to find my e-ticket in the computer, after calling the central office in Beijing. Finally after close to 45 minutes I had a new e-ticket number. But by then the line of taxis out front was gone. I asked how to get back to the city and they informed me of the bus. But when I got there the attendent was busy cleaning and wiping down the bus. I am pretty sure she didn't speak Mandarin, because I couldn't get her to tell me what time the bus was planning on leaving.
The driver was fast asleep under a nearby tree.
Thankfully a taxi finally showed up and I rode it back towards the city for 11 yuan. I wanted to stop at the international bus station to buy a ticket out to Kabakul lake. Which is on the highway to Pakistan so I went to the international bus station. They sent me to the long distance bus station across town but since I am a foreigner they will not sell me a ticket. In the beginning they said there was no bus, but when I pressed them they said there was a bus but they wouldn't sell me a ticket. This is because it is a second-grade pass which in Chinese speak means for locals only. I have talked to two travelcompanies and one has an overnight trip for 640 yuan, and the other has a one day car rental with driver for 880 yuan. I am going to look around town somemore so we will see.
I am hoping I can hop a ride in a mini-bus. I would love to make it all the way up the pass, but it doesn't sound like it is going to happen. I might we able to get to the lake, where I want to spend two nights. We will see.
I feel like I have faced as much adversity as I did yesterday and yet I have a completely different attitude. Maybe it is the perfect summer day or maybe it is the fact that I am now official 22. Who knows but I am in no rush today and so I have taken everything in stride, which I am very proud of. Somewhere between Hong Kong and here I have lost the crazy pace with which I do things in DC. I have become a lot more relaxed and I am surprisingly enjoying it. For the most part I don't know what the date is (only when I have already bought tickets somewhere or it is my birthday) and I have absolutely no hope in telling you what day of the week it is.
I first noticed the change in Dunhuang when my travel companion was go go go and I just wanted to take the leisure scenic route. Maybe it is because I only have a vague plan that I have relaxed a little. Well see if I can keep up this new pace upon returning home.
Oh yeah, I wanted to share another story from my birthday yesterday. When I was walking from the bus station to the hotel, I heard the faint refrains of song growing closer and closer. It was a familiar song and then I knew what it was.... the song was "Happy Birthday!" It was coming from teh water truck that sprays down the dust on the roads. It could have been a complete coincidence that the truck played Happy Birthday, but I heard another truck today and it was playing a different song. I think maybe God knew what I needed, knew that yesterday I was feeling a bit lonely and missing my family. He's amazing isn't he?
In fact I have been thinking about God a lot on this trip. Him and I are in the middle of a fight as I don't particularly agree on some of what the bible teaches if taken literally. So we aren't really speaking at the moment. But I will be walking through sand dunes or past tiny villages, and wonder if the places Jesus travelled through were similar. I spent 4 hours in the desert He spent 40 days, I can't imagine. When I take off my sandles at night, I am reminded of the story of the washing of feet and I comprehend it on a different level. I never thought that in a place where God is so absent, I would find myself being pulled toward Him.
Don't know what I am going to do this evening, maybe look at this problem of reaching the lake a little more and enjoy a nice cold beer on a perfect summer night.
Happy Birthday to me!
Well yesterday the 25th of July was my 22nd Birthday. It truly was a day of ups and downs and by no means perfect. I think at one point I wanted to cry I was just so tired, and frustrated, and hungry. Maybe if it hadn't been my birthday I would have had a little more will in the situations that presented themselves. But as I finally laid my head on the pillow, all in all, it was a good day.
I was going to go to the factory in the morning, but decided since it was my birthday I would sleep in. I checked out of the hotel and headed for the bus station not more than one really long block down the street. Boy let me tell you, I was glad to be on the bus to Kashgar. Not because I have ill will toward Hotan,it is a very interesting place, but there was a bit of a mix up at the long distance bus station and it left a bad taste in my mouth.
I consider my Chinese to be relatively decent, but sometimes I get flustered. Like walking into a train or bus station and getting met with touts trying to sell me tickets and calling out names to every city in driving distance. I normally point at the counter, indicating I am buying an official ticket. It probably isn't the cheapest option but at least I am not getting screwed. So as the hawkers stand around me I am trying to talk to the ticket counter directly. They are speaking Uighur and Mandarin and I can't hear the lady through the speaker. I finally turn to them and in a rather harsh voice and say "Bie shou ba!" Meaning don't talk and they do shut-up.
Well needless to say, I either said or the attendant heard Tulufan and not Kashgar. So after I purchased the ticket for $298 yuan I take a look at it and notice where the ticket is actually for. I stop go back to the counter and try and explain that it is the wrong city. Well, the Chinese tend to raise their voices pretty quickly and we are pretty much yelling at each other through the glass and have attracted a bit of a crowd. I spot a police/security officer and go over and explain to her the problem. They helped me out and a couple of people gave money to the counter, they were all speaking Uighur, so I have no clue what actually transpired, but I am grateful for all of their help. I think just to spite me the attendant gave me a ticket for a bus that was suppose to have left 3 minutes before. Nothing ever leaves on time out here. But I knew I needed to hurry and with most of the signs in Uighur I knew it was going to be tight. I took my bags through the x-ray machine and was rushed through the station and onto the bus by an older man in a white shirt and doppi cap. Although I had no time to buy staples such as water and bread, I was on a bus out of town and I breathed a sigh of relief. I always feel better when I move on or at least have a way of getting to the next city. I am not sure what that says about me, but is probably does say something.
I was a bit upset and when I am upset I don't want to have anything to do with anyone as my family well enough knows. I like to brew by myself and work it out on my own, eventually I have an attitude change (as my father likes to say and pressures me to do faster) and go back to my semi-social self. So I put on my sunglasses and turned my iPod and sat responding to emails on my blackberry. On a side note, the data functions on my blackberry seem to be working again after nearly two weeks, don't know what was wrong with it, but it seems to work now at least.
The man behind me, though wanted to be social and he did speak Mandarin. But I didn't final aqueous until he was forced to move next to me when the bus started filling up with each stop. He actually had been nice earlier sharing some of his sweet tomatoes and nan bread, when the ladies who came on the bus selling ran out right as they arrived at me. I did manage to get some cold green tea, water, two hard boiled eggs and an ear of corn though. But since it was notw 3 and I hadn't eaten all day I was starved. So I turned my iPod off and we chatted for a while. He is a military officer/police officer, its pretty much the same word here so I don't know for sure which he was. He was full of the typical questions and I feel I have perfected my answers. He too wanted to talk about the Iraqi war (a Uighur taxi driver in Tulufan wanted to talk about it too). He lives in Wulumuqi (Urumiqi) and was on vacation. He too wanted an English lesson, but this time I got some Chinese words out of it too!
It started all because I glanced out the window and up in the wispy cirrus clouds there was a rainbow reflecting off the ice crystals. It was beautiful and I don't know if I have seen anything like it, ever. This part of Xinjiang is green and there was farmland and trees that remind me of the trees that line the Slew and 60 acres park in my hometown of Redmond. I forgot that I was upset earlier and just enjoyed it, the colors brightened and spread across the clouds until suddenly it was gone, as if it had been a mirage. I wanted to know the word for it and so I asked, the word for rainbow in Chinese is taihong. So thus began our Chinese lesson. We worked on the names of animals (again) and how to say please give me as well as some other words.
As we neared Karghilik, which is the jumping off point to the back road into Tibet via Ali the police check points increased. We must have stopped at close to a dozen. At one I was pulled off the bus and questioned. I probably shouldn't have corrected the police officer when he wrote my name incorrectly, but I did. He smiled ever so slightly so I think it was okay in the end. But I am sure I wasn't pulled off anywhere else, because whenever an officer boarded the bus the gentleman beside me would pull out his military id and tell them I was legit. I am sure the check points are both security measures for the Olympics and the need on China's part to keep foreigners out of Tibet.
We passed through several small villages, with the officer explaining a little about each one to me. At one he said "qiong" meaning poor and I heard "chong" meaning rough, it took us a couple minutes to sort out that I had the wrong word, but I am pretty sure that both words fit this small village that well could have been from a bigone era. The next city we passed through was Yengisar which is known for their elaborate knives (dao). Earlier when I told the man next to me that it was my birthday, he gave me the knife from his bag. The only birthday present I was given today. It is a small little thing no bigger than a Swiss army knife but with a wicked pointy blade, like elf shoes. It is inscribed with Uighur writing and Chinese characters. It has pink, green, white and gold stones embedded in it. It really is a beautiful thing.
Finally we arrived in Kashgar and I bid the man goodbye and followed my map to the Chini Bagh Hotel on the old British compound long decommissioned. Most likely the Consulate thrived when England controlled India (the Karkoram highway goes into Indian controlled area and onto Pakistan), but now the British have absolutely no use for it so it has been converted to a hotel.
I tried to get a dorm room as those are normally the cheapest but first when I wanted to look at a room and then when I paid for a room they sent me to a room where all 6 beds were already taken! I was tired, I was hungry, it was my birthday, and there was a moment where I could feel the tears of frustration form behind my eyes. After about a half hour it was all worked out and nly for 5 yuan more. Geesh! I dropped my bag on my bed with a sigh of relief. I did not want to pay for a single (280 yuan) and I did not want to go find another hotel. I liked this one.
There are foreigners everywhere here, but that is because of a unique set of circumstances including a group of 50 people from Amsterdam making the trek from Holland to Beijing by car! I met a couple in Tulufan that was doing this privately too! And it got me to thinking what an amazing trip it would be, someday right? But everyone is in town because 600 miles away (I know close right?) is a city called Hami on the Urumiqi-Beijing rail line lies a city called Hami. About 100 miles north very near the Mongolian border is a place called Eclipse City. One million dollars has been spent to build this small town for the single purpose of watching the Eclipse that will occur on August 1. I had met a couple of guys in Dunhuang who were here for the eclipse too.
Well low and behold the guy who organized Eclipse city and has arranged for the tours prior to and after the event, a guy named Xavier, was staying in my hotel. I knew this because I met up with a group of guys from Holland and a guy from Denver who were on his tour. They convinced me that since I was so close it would be a shame not to see it because it is amazing. So Xavier is working on getting me a permit to travel into the area and I am arranging transportation to Hami (he'll get me on one of his buses from there). It also involves moving my flight to Chengdu around, but since my plan was to be in Chengdu no later than the morning of the 3rd I think it will work out perfectly. As I want to see the torch relay which will pass through town.
At dinner, the other gals headed off to bed and I stayed up with the men folk. We talked about everything from Geo spatial Imaging to how Holland's government is run and even craps and poker. It was a very enlightening conversation, you never know who you will met on these trips it is quite amazing and it is one of the reasons I have enjoyed traveling alone.
At the end of the night we had 16 1 liter bottles of local beer on our table, but the bill only came to about 130 yuan, including snacks! Needless to say that I was a bit tipsy, the guys walked me back to my room. When I arrived in the room and was almost asleep the guy sharing the room started talking to me in Chinese. He kept talking about a shower tomorrow and I just didn't get why we were making a shower schedule at 3:00 in the morning. Turns out that he was saying that he was going to Xijang in the morning, I thought he was saying Xizao or shower. We both had a laugh and I fell into a hard sleep.
I was woken at 9 by Xavier wanting to confirm details before they left Kashgar and then I went about finishing sorting out the mess of hotel rooms that happened the night before. With a new bed (this one only 30 yuan) and a breakfast of undercooked french toast I was set for the day. I handed my clothes over to be thoroughly washed, which let's face it they definitely needed after only being washed in a sink with a bar of dove soap for 5 weeks! I will be excited to get them back tonight, all nice and clean. I decided that this afternoon I would go see the bazaar and then tomorrow I am going to go on the bus out towards the Pakistan-Chinese border. It is suppose to be an amazing ride and I plan on staying near Muztagh Ata peak (7546meters) at this amazing lake called Karakul. It is about 5-6 hours out of the city. I wanted to arrange a tour but they only have day tours and I want to go out for 2 nights, so I think I will just buy a bus ticket towards he border and get off early as I have heard is possible.
Will try and post some pictures tonight. Until then, Ash.
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Hotan
This morning I arrived in Hotan (Hetian in Chinese) the dark purple star below. In my tour of Xinjiang Province. So far I have covered the purple line. I still have the yellow line to go before flying out on the 30th. 
I was lucky enough two nights ago to speak with the sisters in Michigan. When I related that I was pretty much in the middle of nowhere, Maria asked why I was all the way out here. So I thought I would answer that question for you all.
I was lucky enough two nights ago to speak with the sisters in Michigan. When I related that I was pretty much in the middle of nowhere, Maria asked why I was all the way out here. So I thought I would answer that question for you all.Xinjiang really is a unique place, it is like mixing a bit of the Amish with the Native Americans. I say this in that the Native Americans have a history largely (abit not recently) different from the European settlers, while the Amish have been able to hold on to their unique culture. The Xinjiang Uighurs have a history that has largely been driven by the existance of the Silk Road. In Hotan, there was actually jade found that archeologists have dated back to 5,000 BC. Additionally Hotanese discovered the secret of Chinese silk by 5th century AD. Hotan also established itself as the region's premiere carpet weavers. They were to carpet as perhaps France's Champagne region is to the bubbly-stuff. In fact traditional ways of carpet and silk making are retained in the area.
Tomorrow morning I hope to visit a traditional carpet factory and silk factory. I am very excited about this. I tried unsuccessfully to visit a silk factory today that employs more modern techniques, but because most of the population speaks Uighur and the signs all utilize Arabic script (see two posts ago), I had trouble locating this particular factory. The day was not a loss though because I was able to visit the local market.
The first thing you notice when arriving, is the previlance of donkey carts and absence of cars. The smell of farms, donkeys, and horses overwhelms you as you pass by the donkey cart-parking lot where there were over 200 donkey carts, but as you enter the market the pungent smell is left behind and the softer perfume of nectarines greats you. The sound of hee-haw-ing donkeys gets lost amongst the babble of Uighur and your eyes take in the rainbow of vibrant colors. From the bright green lettuce to the ruby red tomatoes it seems as if the colors are being accented by the colors of the Uighur women's head scarves.
A larger Uighur women outfited from head to toe in a black and white dress only her eyes visible sits on the ground with bags of seeds around her at one aisle crossroads. As people come up she holds out a cup with a long handle and without appearing to move she scoops seeds onto pieces of paper. Placing the paper on a scale she uses a marked stick and attached weight to traditionally measure the price. Later these will become the lettuce, onions, and spices that serve to infuse the market-goers nostrils with the wonderful smells of spring. Across the way an old man turns corn over a fire grilling it, and a women hacks at a piece of ice at least a meter tall, before mixing it with water and a orange spice to make a very popular drink.
Moving past the produce section, one enters the clothing section. Where traditional silk head scarves and men's doppi ('skullcaps') mix with modern troussers and children's clothing. The occasional load speaker adds to this mix of modernity and traditionalism, as hawkers anounce their latest and greatest product. It is as if the local American fair and trades show has met the Middle East. I can imagine what they are saying, and if you buy today not only will I give you the lowest price in history, but will throw in these other things for Free! So you get all the world saving, life altering benefits of this item in addition to the ground breaking deal.
But the real gem of the market lies further back. Before one reaches the market for coal and wood, they first are accosted with flocks of animals. First the heards of sheep, as men take careful stock before buying what will most likely be dinner for the next week. One rather large brown sheep makes a break for it squeezing through the wooden fence to take a drink from a puddle on the ground. The heardsman qickly notices and after unsuccessfully pushing him through the fence he all but picks the sheep up and pushes him over back into his pen.
The sound of clucking works its way through the bahing of sheep. Where red, white, and black chickens can be seen from behind the monocromatic mass of sheep and men. Not many women populate this area, but one women walks off carrying her chicken upside down. None of the chickens really fight the feeling and groping, as if they have already given into their fate. Bunnies sit in cages on the ground but no one seems to take interest.
Down a perpendicular aisle I spot another oddity, the sight of a heard of cattle. One man stops to admire my camera and points it out to another man. They both oddle over it for a mintue before the second man begins trying to speak to me and pointing at the cow next to him. I am dumbstruck for a moment, does he really expect the foreigner to buy a cow!!! What the heck does he think I am going to do with it? Take it on an airplane home?
But then a lightbulb goes off. I have been silent for most of the day because almost everyone here speaka Uighur and Putonghua (or Mandarin as it is known to us westerns) doesn't really get me anywhere. But I begin to explain using Mandarin that I have no use for a cow, when I say 'niu,' the Chinese word for cow. All of a sudden he starts speaking Mandarin and I realize he is not trying to sell me a cow, but wants to know the word for cow in English. So I say it slowly, as he struggles to pronounce the word, saying sow (like a female big). No I correct, with a hard K sound instead of the soft 'c.' I squat down and pick up a nearby stick writing the word in the dirt.
He points behind him, indicating the word for sheep (gaoyang in chinese), I say sheep. He tries to write the word spelling it see9. I correct it. Our converstation going back in forth in Chinese as he asks where I am from, how long have I have been in China, what other cities have I visited, where did I learn to speak mandarin, so you are a college student asking if I am studying abroad in China. I tell him no, I am here traveling before going to the Olympics. Like every other Chinese person this look of awe crosses his face at the fact that I have Olympic tickets.
By now as our English lesson has continued, here is the Uighur man and blond-haired fair skinned girl crouched down speaking what to most there is a foreign language. Surely a crowd has gathered, from the beginning there were several people watching even though they didn't understand. But now the crowd has circled around us and at I looked up it was at least 5 people deep. The man tried to invite me back to his house, but I declined. Most likely innocent hospitality, but I am just not willing to take any chances, telling him I already have a hotel room. The popularity of this little scenes begins to get to me, so I tell everyone "thank you" in Uighur (the only word I know: Rhakmad) and excuse myself.
I am used to being stared at here in China. For many people they have very rarely seen foreigners in these parts, let a lone a tall, blonde woman traveling by herself. For this reason I have taken to wearing my sunglasses most of the time, even indoors if I am in a public place. I tend to think of the movie 'Big Daddy' and Sunny giving Julian the sunglasses because he is scared and nervous and shy. The sunglass make Julian, the 6 year old, 'invisible.' I know people will still stare, but it makes me feel more comforable as the eye contact piece is illuminated. It helps not only with putting the stares behind me, but it stops the hawkers from bothering me. Perticularly if I don't respond to their calls of Hello. From the children I will turn, smile, wave, and say Hello and goodbye, but from the Hawkers I just sometimes don't want to deal with the rich-foreigner sterotype that they have. I really don't know what I would do without my sunglasses.
But ironically I have enjoyed being able to teach people English words here. Today it was cow and sheep, two days ago I taught this Uigher family how to say Hello, do you want to eat food?, and pulled noodles. But I think after hearing "Hello" from everyother person it does get to me after a while. I know it is part of what is called "cultural shock." But the stereotype that every foreigner is American and that somehow I have an obligation to return their "Hello" bothers me.
Anyways... Here in Xinjiang, I am debating wearing a head scarf, as it might cut down on the stares due to my blonde hair. But then I really would be hiding a varifiable part of me behind something and I am just not comfortable with that. Plus I don't know how much it would cut down on the stares. Plus it is a cultural thing and there are enough Han Chinese here who do not wear the headscarves or other head coverings that I do not feel as if I am insulting their culture. I am just being my American self and I think they understand it. I think I would be trivializing their culture if I did where it. We will see with time what I decide, perhaps in Kashgar.
But for all the complaining it is those moments like meeting with the Uighur family in Tuyoq and the herdsman here in Hotan that make this entire trip worthwhile. These are the memories that I will take with me forever. These are the memories that will make me stop and think differently about how I view Muslims for the rest of my life and for the opportunity I am greatful.
Well it is off to Kashgar tomorrow. Normally, I get a little annoyed at being in big cities, but I am really excited for Kashgar. In particular the Sunday Market which is a giant bazaar and heading out to Kanas lake. This time it is only a 10 hour bus ride!
For more information about the area of Hotan, I came across a great site, feel free to peruse: http://www.centralasiatraveler.com/cn/xj/h/hotan.html.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
I am safe!
Just wanted to let you know that I am safe and sound. Today there was a terrorist attack in Kunming the capital of Yunnan Province. 2 people died and many more were injured. I was looking forward to heading to Yunnan in about a week, but will have to take another look at my plans after this latest round of violence.
For more information take a look at this article in the NY Times... http://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/22/world/asia/22china.html?_r=1&scp=1&sq=Kunming&st=cse&oref=slogin
Truth be told I was a little annoyed at Beijing and the Olympics this morning. About 95% of me is excited not just for the Games but for this opportunity for China. But after all the visa issues I had, and not being able to freely travel in Tibetian populated areas (Xiahe in Ganzu and Qinghai Province in general), let alone Tibet, it reached a tipping point this morning, when I was unable to enter grottos outside this little village called Tyouq. "For the safety of the Foreigners..." the letter from Beijing began. I was just so upset, even more so after stopping for breakfast at a small family guesthouse and restaurant in thos tiny village and realizing how much the closing of the caves was effecting this family. Not to mention the effects that the Olympic games have had on ticket prices, which were slowly increasing due to the popularity of travel in China by foreigners in the last several years. But with the Olympics the number of non-Olympic-goer travellers has decreased SIGNIFICANTLY due to tightening of visa regulations. As a result ticket prices for those foreigners that do reach far away places like Gansu and Xinjuang have gone through the roof as they scramble to bring in relatively similar amounts as previous years.
But then something like today happens and I am reminded how much is really at stake. How much is on the line. The real reasons that there are police officers standing on street corners in Beijing with machine guns (Yes, they were infront of my hotel). It is not that they are afraid of the bad image of China in the press if a foreigner would get hurt, nor the even more catostraphic foriegn policy snafu. But I think the Chinese government does take seriously the protection of not only its people, but those of us foreigners who are guests in their country. Needless to say, my thoughts are with the families of the two people who died today, as well as with their fellow country men and women. I really am privileged to be here.
For more information take a look at this article in the NY Times... http://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/22/world/asia/22china.html?_r=1&scp=1&sq=Kunming&st=cse&oref=slogin
Truth be told I was a little annoyed at Beijing and the Olympics this morning. About 95% of me is excited not just for the Games but for this opportunity for China. But after all the visa issues I had, and not being able to freely travel in Tibetian populated areas (Xiahe in Ganzu and Qinghai Province in general), let alone Tibet, it reached a tipping point this morning, when I was unable to enter grottos outside this little village called Tyouq. "For the safety of the Foreigners..." the letter from Beijing began. I was just so upset, even more so after stopping for breakfast at a small family guesthouse and restaurant in thos tiny village and realizing how much the closing of the caves was effecting this family. Not to mention the effects that the Olympic games have had on ticket prices, which were slowly increasing due to the popularity of travel in China by foreigners in the last several years. But with the Olympics the number of non-Olympic-goer travellers has decreased SIGNIFICANTLY due to tightening of visa regulations. As a result ticket prices for those foreigners that do reach far away places like Gansu and Xinjuang have gone through the roof as they scramble to bring in relatively similar amounts as previous years.
But then something like today happens and I am reminded how much is really at stake. How much is on the line. The real reasons that there are police officers standing on street corners in Beijing with machine guns (Yes, they were infront of my hotel). It is not that they are afraid of the bad image of China in the press if a foreigner would get hurt, nor the even more catostraphic foriegn policy snafu. But I think the Chinese government does take seriously the protection of not only its people, but those of us foreigners who are guests in their country. Needless to say, my thoughts are with the families of the two people who died today, as well as with their fellow country men and women. I really am privileged to be here.
Monday, July 21, 2008
Uighur and Chinese Minorities
I have been travling for 37 days now and have really covered some territory. Just see that long purple line in the picture. I have made it to the western most province called Xinjiang. This actually isn't a province it is an autonomous region. Meaning they have more local control than other provinces, there are 5 autonomous regions: Guanxi, Ningxia, Inner Mongolia, Tibet, and Xinjiang. Xinjiang is known for being home to the Uighur (Uyger) minority group. There are 55 recongonized minority groups in China and they all have their own unique culture.
Saturday, July 19, 2008
Three Posts in One Day...
...ya'll should be feeling pretty special.
Just wanted to let you know that I have uploaded some more photos. An additional 179 to be exact and I still have 1,842 photos from the last week to go through and pick favorites from so you will probably get another 200 more some time in the coming days.
To access photos click on the picture of the terracotta warriors in the right hand column. This should take you to my photo album. Note that the Northwestern Gansu, Hohhot, and Xi'an photos are all new.
Keep your eyes opened as there are even some pictures of me mixed in there.
You all are eating lunch or hoping to get out of work soon, but it's almost 3:30 in the morning here, so I need to head to bed. Early morning at the grottos tomorrow.
Just wanted to let you know that I have uploaded some more photos. An additional 179 to be exact and I still have 1,842 photos from the last week to go through and pick favorites from so you will probably get another 200 more some time in the coming days.
To access photos click on the picture of the terracotta warriors in the right hand column. This should take you to my photo album. Note that the Northwestern Gansu, Hohhot, and Xi'an photos are all new.
Keep your eyes opened as there are even some pictures of me mixed in there.
You all are eating lunch or hoping to get out of work soon, but it's almost 3:30 in the morning here, so I need to head to bed. Early morning at the grottos tomorrow.
Surprise around every bend.
7/19 UPDATE: Our leisurely morning turned out to be too leisurely and we didn't think there would be enough time to visit Mogao, so we decided to leave that for tomorrow. Instead we headed out to the western thousand caves. The name should be changed because it sets the expectation-bar too high. In fact there were only sixteen, with only five opened to the public. It was fun trying to translate for my Polish friend. Mostly it consisted of dates, dynasties, names of the buddhas, etc... but I did learn a couple words. The area below the caves was lush and green, so my friend had me ask if the water had always been there. It turned out there was a river nearby, so we took off walking.
We climbed over the embankment and were met not with a river, but with a small puddle of water on the far side of the river bed. At one point the river must have been huge because the canyon that had formed (Danghe Canyon) was both wide and deep. Nothing compared to the grand canyon, but a reminder none the less that when given the chance this country will surprise you again and again. Above the far canyon wall, the sand dunes slowly gave way to rock mountains. It was like looking at a gradient of time. In fact it is the cliff faces are the record of time. A quick google search, unearths the following quotes:
Tomorrow we will head to the Mogao Caves which are both larger and more numerous. Hopefully I will have time prior to the train to post, if not I will talk to you next from Turpan, which my mom's side of the family will love to know is wine country.
We climbed over the embankment and were met not with a river, but with a small puddle of water on the far side of the river bed. At one point the river must have been huge because the canyon that had formed (Danghe Canyon) was both wide and deep. Nothing compared to the grand canyon, but a reminder none the less that when given the chance this country will surprise you again and again. Above the far canyon wall, the sand dunes slowly gave way to rock mountains. It was like looking at a gradient of time. In fact it is the cliff faces are the record of time. A quick google search, unearths the following quotes:
We did not find any fossils ourselves, but the frescos within the cave walls tell a tale all their own. The were commissioned by wealthy merchants from the Wei dynasty to the Tang dynasty. Meaning they are approximately 1,000 years old. Over time the caves have been damaged by both nature and humans. The beheading of several buddha statues leaves me to believe that they were most likely damaged during the cultural revolution even though they were placed on the list of national emphasis of cultural relics in 1961.The Danghe area in western Gansu Province is at the focal point of interaction of the northeastern end of the left-lateral Altyn Tagh Fault and growing ramp thrusts of the Danghe Nanshan Mountains along the northern rim of the Qinghai–Tibetan Plateau. With a thick sequence of Tertiary sediments and associated fossil records, the Danghe area is one of few places on the Tibetan Plateau that can offer integrated studies of its tectonic history, depositional environment, and biological records, including vertebrate and plant fossils.
In July and August of 2001 a mandible of Platybelodon was unearthed from the early Miocene deposits in the Danghe area,Gansu,China. It represents the most primitive and the earliest species of Platybelodon so far known.
Tomorrow we will head to the Mogao Caves which are both larger and more numerous. Hopefully I will have time prior to the train to post, if not I will talk to you next from Turpan, which my mom's side of the family will love to know is wine country.
Friday, July 18, 2008
You wouldn't believe this was China!
Yesterday a Polish girl I met on the train and myself headed out to the Cresent Moon Lake. What is most interesting about this lake is not that it is in the shape of a cresent moon, but rather that it is in the middle of a sandy desert.
Having left Jiayuguan by train, what there was of little artificially watered greenery soon gave way to flat monochromatic dirt land, that was technically a desert. So when one arrives in Dunhuang you are arriving to an oasis. It is lush and grassy, there are many trees. Almost as if it were a mirage. So when we headed out to the desert here in Dunhuang we expected to meet a lake in the middle of the flat desert, but what we were met with was nothing short of spectacular. You are walking on this flat road when all of a sudden these yellow sandy dunes rise up out of the middle of nowhere.
Apparently the dunes are 20 km by 40 km, which is actually quite large. After we paid a 120 yuan entrance fee, which was quite rediculous in my opinion, we entered into the desert. The Chinese tend act in a follow the herd mentality; they are quite similar to sheep sometimes. So if one person does something, that means it becomes the new norm, and they all must follow suit. So every Chinese person there dawned their bright orange booties and got into the little bus and headed out to the lake (a 40 minute walk away, we were told by the bus driver). Well needless to say we are not Chinese and declined both the small people mover that you would see at Disney World and the orange boodies.
After walking in the very hot sand we eventually paid the 10 yuan and rented the rediculous looking booties. But it turned out it was no more than a 15 minute walk on a gravel road to the lake. My polish friend was very impressed, but I was not. The lake looked artificially made to me. After stocking up on more overpriced water we took off walking. After several hard earned minutes we reached a sign that I think said 'please don't climb further,' but we played the naive foreigner card and decided to disregard it. We looked around for a minute before heading for the top of the nearest sand dune to see the lake from above.
After a couple photos and a water break we decided to head further out into the desert. So off we went, we walked on and off for close to 3 hours, up these sand dunes that were really quite steep. Imagine the extra effort it takes to run on a dry sandy beach, then turn that beach on a 35-45 degree angle and you can imagine it was slow going. But away from all the tourists, it was silent and amazing. In the distance you could see the city of Dunhuang and in every direction there was sand.
We looked for the highest peak and decided we would climb it for sunset, so there we were climbing this sand dune in the middle of china, of all places. When we finally made it to the top at about 8 o'clock we plopped down and waited. The best part about the peak was that on the other side the sand was shaded and cool, a nice change from the scorching sun we had been walking on for hours. A couple minutes past 9 the sun finally set behind the mountains, with slight pinks and oranges lighting up the sky. We put our cameras away and decided on the best course down from the top of this dune.
With the setting of the sun the sand was now cool to the touch, so we took of our orange boodies and sandles and started down the dune barefoot. We walked on the peak for a while and then when it became quite steep we decided to slide down a ways. As we slid down on our hineys this deep almost industrial sound started. The sand was actually moaning and while a bit scary it was probably the most interesting moment of the day.
Walking down took a lot less time than walking up, we reached the crest of the hill overlooking the crescent lake about 40 minutes later. just as the full moon came up over the far off sand dunes. We watched it for a couple minutes. Many Chinese people had also climbed up from the lake to watch, they were singing songs and it was very heart uplifting, there was this feeling of calm and contentment in the air. The Chinese people seem to value their time together. No matter which city I have been in, when the sun goes down and it cools the people come out in droves. They populate the city squares and watch movies projected onto large screens. They can be found on street corners and playing in fountains. They sing, dance, play, and laugh. It is a nice change from the western consensus of coming home and eating dinner and watching tv until the late news when one finally retires to bed.
We finally returned back to the city by way of a 1 yuan bus and went in search of water. Even though we brought 2 liters of water with us it was not enough and we were very thirsty. I am convinced that the only way that people crossed the desert historically was at night, while resting during the day. It is just too brutle otherwise.
We had dinner across the street from the hotel about 11 o'clock (hotel is 40 yuan a person per night, and I am sharing the room with the girl from Poland). I had sweet and sour chicken because I was craving a bit of protein and then we returned to the hotel room. I took a quick shower and then was asleep shortly there after. We both slept straight through the night until the maid knocked on the door at 10 for housekeeping services. We decided on a slow morning and here I am writing this message.
Having left Jiayuguan by train, what there was of little artificially watered greenery soon gave way to flat monochromatic dirt land, that was technically a desert. So when one arrives in Dunhuang you are arriving to an oasis. It is lush and grassy, there are many trees. Almost as if it were a mirage. So when we headed out to the desert here in Dunhuang we expected to meet a lake in the middle of the flat desert, but what we were met with was nothing short of spectacular. You are walking on this flat road when all of a sudden these yellow sandy dunes rise up out of the middle of nowhere.
Apparently the dunes are 20 km by 40 km, which is actually quite large. After we paid a 120 yuan entrance fee, which was quite rediculous in my opinion, we entered into the desert. The Chinese tend act in a follow the herd mentality; they are quite similar to sheep sometimes. So if one person does something, that means it becomes the new norm, and they all must follow suit. So every Chinese person there dawned their bright orange booties and got into the little bus and headed out to the lake (a 40 minute walk away, we were told by the bus driver). Well needless to say we are not Chinese and declined both the small people mover that you would see at Disney World and the orange boodies.
After walking in the very hot sand we eventually paid the 10 yuan and rented the rediculous looking booties. But it turned out it was no more than a 15 minute walk on a gravel road to the lake. My polish friend was very impressed, but I was not. The lake looked artificially made to me. After stocking up on more overpriced water we took off walking. After several hard earned minutes we reached a sign that I think said 'please don't climb further,' but we played the naive foreigner card and decided to disregard it. We looked around for a minute before heading for the top of the nearest sand dune to see the lake from above.
After a couple photos and a water break we decided to head further out into the desert. So off we went, we walked on and off for close to 3 hours, up these sand dunes that were really quite steep. Imagine the extra effort it takes to run on a dry sandy beach, then turn that beach on a 35-45 degree angle and you can imagine it was slow going. But away from all the tourists, it was silent and amazing. In the distance you could see the city of Dunhuang and in every direction there was sand.
We looked for the highest peak and decided we would climb it for sunset, so there we were climbing this sand dune in the middle of china, of all places. When we finally made it to the top at about 8 o'clock we plopped down and waited. The best part about the peak was that on the other side the sand was shaded and cool, a nice change from the scorching sun we had been walking on for hours. A couple minutes past 9 the sun finally set behind the mountains, with slight pinks and oranges lighting up the sky. We put our cameras away and decided on the best course down from the top of this dune.
With the setting of the sun the sand was now cool to the touch, so we took of our orange boodies and sandles and started down the dune barefoot. We walked on the peak for a while and then when it became quite steep we decided to slide down a ways. As we slid down on our hineys this deep almost industrial sound started. The sand was actually moaning and while a bit scary it was probably the most interesting moment of the day.
Walking down took a lot less time than walking up, we reached the crest of the hill overlooking the crescent lake about 40 minutes later. just as the full moon came up over the far off sand dunes. We watched it for a couple minutes. Many Chinese people had also climbed up from the lake to watch, they were singing songs and it was very heart uplifting, there was this feeling of calm and contentment in the air. The Chinese people seem to value their time together. No matter which city I have been in, when the sun goes down and it cools the people come out in droves. They populate the city squares and watch movies projected onto large screens. They can be found on street corners and playing in fountains. They sing, dance, play, and laugh. It is a nice change from the western consensus of coming home and eating dinner and watching tv until the late news when one finally retires to bed.
We finally returned back to the city by way of a 1 yuan bus and went in search of water. Even though we brought 2 liters of water with us it was not enough and we were very thirsty. I am convinced that the only way that people crossed the desert historically was at night, while resting during the day. It is just too brutle otherwise.
We had dinner across the street from the hotel about 11 o'clock (hotel is 40 yuan a person per night, and I am sharing the room with the girl from Poland). I had sweet and sour chicken because I was craving a bit of protein and then we returned to the hotel room. I took a quick shower and then was asleep shortly there after. We both slept straight through the night until the maid knocked on the door at 10 for housekeeping services. We decided on a slow morning and here I am writing this message.
Hope all is well at home. Ash.
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
The Great Ganzu
I am currently in Lanzhou where I have left the lush land of eastern Gansu behind. The tirip here has been quite an adventure having left Xi'an by bus. While the train ride takes 3-4 hours, even though the travel roughly the same path the bus trip took almost 8 . This is mostly because of the very rough road conditions.
They are currently building a multi-lane freeway (which would most likely be a toll road, like every other highway in China) and it cannot come soon enough. The road from Baoji to Tianshui is a one and a half lane winding dirt road, filed with many pot holes and much mud. Drivers in China have rules of their own, it is definately not a you were here first system, but rather a who ever can get there first type of road rules. So when in the oncoming traffic lane we passed nearly 2km of backed up trucks I was not all two surprised. When we finally reached the problem area it turned out two trucks had gotten stuck as they made the turn up an overpass. I glanced down at the still uncompleted highway that ran below and back up at the road in enough time to see a farmer walking his water buffalo past the traffic jam! Only in China I thought. 45 minutes later the problem was finally solved and we were on our way again, only to be met with a similar problem less than an hour later.
But the scenery in this part of the country (before you reach lanzhou) is quite amaing. The hills that surround the Yellow River valley that we were driving thorough have been terraced and are lush with farming and orchards. In the varry are these small towns that very well could be from 50, 100, 200 years ago, if it weren't for the satelite dishes mounted on every house and the multitude of motorbikes.
Most of the trip winded along the Yellow River. This was once the greatest river in China, but today it is not much more than a large creek in some places, which almost saddened me. You could see how over time the water had created these mini-canyons. It was beautiful and I wish I had been able to take some decent pictures, but with the rain and the resulting mud on the windows none of my pictures turned out very well.
On that note, I know I owe you about a week and a half's worth of pictures. It is a bit of a time consuming task, which I must do when I have free internet so it will have to wait a couple more days.
The local specialty here seems to be sunflowers, they are growing everywhere and my favorite food here has by far been the sunflower cookies, which remind me a bit of peanut butter coookies. The bakery also had a cinnamon roll type cake that was very good as well. The local specialty is meat noodles, but last night (in Lanzhou) I had some sort of spicy fried rice. It was very good, but am feeling a bit queezy at the moment. Next time I think I will say 'not spicy' instead of 'a little spicy'. If mine was a little spicy, I am not sure how they manage to eat it!
Well I am off this evening for Jiayuguan via a 9-10 hour train ride. Jiayuguan has a glacier as well as a Ming fort and the western most portion of the Great Wall, once you pass it you are out of the area historically controlled by China. It should be very interesting. Will try to post again soon.
They are currently building a multi-lane freeway (which would most likely be a toll road, like every other highway in China) and it cannot come soon enough. The road from Baoji to Tianshui is a one and a half lane winding dirt road, filed with many pot holes and much mud. Drivers in China have rules of their own, it is definately not a you were here first system, but rather a who ever can get there first type of road rules. So when in the oncoming traffic lane we passed nearly 2km of backed up trucks I was not all two surprised. When we finally reached the problem area it turned out two trucks had gotten stuck as they made the turn up an overpass. I glanced down at the still uncompleted highway that ran below and back up at the road in enough time to see a farmer walking his water buffalo past the traffic jam! Only in China I thought. 45 minutes later the problem was finally solved and we were on our way again, only to be met with a similar problem less than an hour later.
But the scenery in this part of the country (before you reach lanzhou) is quite amaing. The hills that surround the Yellow River valley that we were driving thorough have been terraced and are lush with farming and orchards. In the varry are these small towns that very well could be from 50, 100, 200 years ago, if it weren't for the satelite dishes mounted on every house and the multitude of motorbikes.
Most of the trip winded along the Yellow River. This was once the greatest river in China, but today it is not much more than a large creek in some places, which almost saddened me. You could see how over time the water had created these mini-canyons. It was beautiful and I wish I had been able to take some decent pictures, but with the rain and the resulting mud on the windows none of my pictures turned out very well.
On that note, I know I owe you about a week and a half's worth of pictures. It is a bit of a time consuming task, which I must do when I have free internet so it will have to wait a couple more days.
The local specialty here seems to be sunflowers, they are growing everywhere and my favorite food here has by far been the sunflower cookies, which remind me a bit of peanut butter coookies. The bakery also had a cinnamon roll type cake that was very good as well. The local specialty is meat noodles, but last night (in Lanzhou) I had some sort of spicy fried rice. It was very good, but am feeling a bit queezy at the moment. Next time I think I will say 'not spicy' instead of 'a little spicy'. If mine was a little spicy, I am not sure how they manage to eat it!
Well I am off this evening for Jiayuguan via a 9-10 hour train ride. Jiayuguan has a glacier as well as a Ming fort and the western most portion of the Great Wall, once you pass it you are out of the area historically controlled by China. It should be very interesting. Will try to post again soon.
Sunday, July 13, 2008
In the end having money in my pocket is all that matters.
Mix a failed attempt at an ATM withdrawl in Inter Mongolia, with another attempt when I arrived in Xi'an the next day. While overnight my hostel in Xi'an processed my $3.00 USD deposit by way of Ireland (!!!) and what do you get? Well folks, you get a frozen bank account.Being stuck in a cash only society, without access to your funds via ATM is nothing short of frustrating. Additionally at $2.50 (USD) a minute to call the states customer service number, I was nothing short of upset. Never mind the list of crap I had to first fax before they would even have a full conversation with me. It included a copy of my drivers license, passport, atm card, and 3 copies of my signature. Finally at 1:30 in the morning my time, I finally had it sorted out.
Excuse my rant for a moment.... but I am frustrated that departments within Bank of America do not work together and I am frustrated that they are less then hospitable to their patrons traveling abroad and the unique set of circumstances that that entails. Their partner bank here is China has failed 3 times previously in accessing my funds. I am upset that at $2.50 a minute I was put on hold for over 10 minutes after first speaking to a representative, because their collect phone number did not work. I am upset that after being told they would credit my account, in the end I was told they would not.
But needless to say I am not a fond customer of Bank of America at the moment and I will be having a nice-long conversation with my bank manager when I return to the states. I was treated with much disrespect. And was informed that I should call to forewarn them of my travels next time. Hello? I did.
This trip has been filled with many good and memorible moments. But it has also been filled with many hurdles and brick walls. I kept telling myself: hurdles make you stronger and brick walls make you prove how bad you want something. But I would sure be glad if this trip was smooth sailing. But right now I am happy with enough cash in my pocket to last me the next 10-14 days.
I leave in the next couple hours for Tianshui then on to Lanzhou, Jiayuguan, and Durhuang in Gansu Province. From there it is off to Xinjiang then Qinghai. I will try to keep you posted.
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
Itineray for Grasslands and Desert Trip
I am currently somewhere within that yellow area in the map above.
I thought some of the translations in the itinerary for my trip tomorrow were quite funny, so I thought I would share.
Xilamuren Grassland, desert two-days trip
8:30am Climb lofty and solem Daginshan Mountain. Dfuring the travel you can enjoy the Yinshan Mountain, the pine Greeting Guesta and homeotwn of the emperor.
10:00am After arriving the beautiful grasslands, you will get warm welcome reception from Mongolian people (for short down-horse liquor).
10:10am Feel the Mongolian food culture.
Lunch/12:00pm Lunch Four could dishes, four main couse, tate handed-meat. The Mongolian girl will offer the Hada and liquior to show their warm courtesy.
14:00pm Ride horse (not include)
A: visiting Mongolian family, acquaint the living style of Mongolian family, comprehend heaven-human combination philosophy.
B: visiting swamp, comprehend the harmoney of man and nature. You can take pictures ina beautiful scernery with flocks;
C: Visiting the Aobao hill of the holy altar of Mongolian people, listening to the Mongolian love story and the hero sisters stirring deed, take pictures with flocks. Then a time for free activities.
18:00pm Enjoying grasslands Nadamu competition, such as racing, wresling, then go back to yurt. Then a time for free activities.
19:00pm Havind supper following the solemn ceremony of Mongolia people--- offer Hada, liguor. After supper, enjoy the national sing and dance program. Join the evening party. Living in the traditional Mongolian yurt.
The next day:
7:00am: (Mongolian style breakfast)
8:30am: Set out to Kubuqi desert, on the way you can go sight-seeing the Tumote plain.
Lunch: You canm enjoy the Erdos wedding cermeony (at one's own expense) on the desert.
Afternoon: Go sight seeing the Kubuqi desert, creep th desert, play volleyball on teh desert, riding camels (at one's own expense)
18:00pm Go back to Huhhot, finish the wonderful two day trip.
Anyways sounds like it will be interesting to say the least. I will take lots of photos. I will probably be out of contact through the 12th so don't worry if you don't hear from me.
Love, A
Hohhot is Hot! And you guys Rock!
And by hot, I don't mean sexy. I mean downright dreadful. It is currently (at 7:00 at night) 90* F outside, but as luck would have it is completely cloudly and humidity is at 68%, let alone the nice layer of smog. I want to go out and take some pictures but I think I am going to take some night shots and grab some ice cream.
That said, I am going to dedicate this post to say a huge THANKS! First to all of you who have stopped by and taken a look. I appreciate you allowing me to share my experiences with you. But especially to family friend Anne McTavish, my Aunt Lisa, my Aunt Bev and my Mom. Who have all posted comments! And not just a word or two, but paragraphs. It put a big smile on my face! Thank you all.
In response to your comment, yes Lisa, I do think that sending one's words out into the blogosphere does leave something to be desired on the instant feedback spectrum. And as luck would have it I did post in the comments section of myfamily.com yesterday the blog link. Though if anyone is reading this here, they don't really need the link. Now do they? But I do commend you Lisa on putting that site together, and know that I empathize greatly.
Anne, it was so nice to here from you. I feel like I haven't seen you in forever, and since I didn't make it up skiing this year, it probably has been forever. I hope this post finds you and your family well. I can't remember did Tara just graduate or is it next year. If she did, wish her congratulations for me. Thanks for stoping by and taking a look.
Mom, congratulations yourself on getting accepted to your program. It was great getting to talk with you for the five minutes that I did the other day. To answer your question the exchange rate from the US Dollar to the Chinese Yuan is 1 to 6.86. That means for ever 100 USD I exchange I get roughly 700 Yuan. The other way to think of it is for every 1 Yuan I spend, it only costs me $0.15 or fifteen cents.
Thanks for the two posts and an email, Aunt Bev! I hope that the hurricane comes nowhere close to you. My thoughts will be with you over the next several days even though it sounds like you won't be having any trouble. To answer your question China stays on one time zone (go figure with its size) and it is 15 hours ahead of the West Coast and 12 hours ahead for the East Coast. For you Aunt Bev, look at the clock if it is 10:02 am on Thursday than where I am it is 10:02 pm the next day (Friday). For everyone else on the west coast I recommend first calculating the difference to east coast time (aka add 3 hours) then add the half day ahead.
Finally, a big thanks to my dad! Whom I have woken up at ungodly hours twice in the last week to help me. Just an FYI, I have booked my hotel in Xi'an and my plane ticket there so I am set for the next several days.
I have a couple posts typed up on my blackberry that I attempted unsuccessfully to post to the blog. My blackberry does not have internet service out here in Inner Mongolia, so you should see several posts on what would be the 12th in the US when I arrive in Xi'an (home of the terracotta warriors). Hope all is well!
-A
That said, I am going to dedicate this post to say a huge THANKS! First to all of you who have stopped by and taken a look. I appreciate you allowing me to share my experiences with you. But especially to family friend Anne McTavish, my Aunt Lisa, my Aunt Bev and my Mom. Who have all posted comments! And not just a word or two, but paragraphs. It put a big smile on my face! Thank you all.
In response to your comment, yes Lisa, I do think that sending one's words out into the blogosphere does leave something to be desired on the instant feedback spectrum. And as luck would have it I did post in the comments section of myfamily.com yesterday the blog link. Though if anyone is reading this here, they don't really need the link. Now do they? But I do commend you Lisa on putting that site together, and know that I empathize greatly.
Anne, it was so nice to here from you. I feel like I haven't seen you in forever, and since I didn't make it up skiing this year, it probably has been forever. I hope this post finds you and your family well. I can't remember did Tara just graduate or is it next year. If she did, wish her congratulations for me. Thanks for stoping by and taking a look.
Mom, congratulations yourself on getting accepted to your program. It was great getting to talk with you for the five minutes that I did the other day. To answer your question the exchange rate from the US Dollar to the Chinese Yuan is 1 to 6.86. That means for ever 100 USD I exchange I get roughly 700 Yuan. The other way to think of it is for every 1 Yuan I spend, it only costs me $0.15 or fifteen cents.
Thanks for the two posts and an email, Aunt Bev! I hope that the hurricane comes nowhere close to you. My thoughts will be with you over the next several days even though it sounds like you won't be having any trouble. To answer your question China stays on one time zone (go figure with its size) and it is 15 hours ahead of the West Coast and 12 hours ahead for the East Coast. For you Aunt Bev, look at the clock if it is 10:02 am on Thursday than where I am it is 10:02 pm the next day (Friday). For everyone else on the west coast I recommend first calculating the difference to east coast time (aka add 3 hours) then add the half day ahead.
Finally, a big thanks to my dad! Whom I have woken up at ungodly hours twice in the last week to help me. Just an FYI, I have booked my hotel in Xi'an and my plane ticket there so I am set for the next several days.
I have a couple posts typed up on my blackberry that I attempted unsuccessfully to post to the blog. My blackberry does not have internet service out here in Inner Mongolia, so you should see several posts on what would be the 12th in the US when I arrive in Xi'an (home of the terracotta warriors). Hope all is well!
-A
Monday, July 7, 2008
PHOTOS!!! PHOTOS!!! PHOTOS!!!
I have uploaded 204 photos from the last three weeks to my flicker account. They can be viewed by following the following link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/28086815@N05/collections/
I hope you enjoy.
Ashley
http://www.flickr.com/photos/28086815@N05/collections/
I hope you enjoy.
Ashley
Sunday, July 6, 2008
20 Days in China
Ni Hao Ya'll! So I know I have been remiss in posting for the last couple of days. So I will make a deal with you, if you leave comments I will write more posts. I actually have a couple mostly written waiting for me to post. But right now I just don't feel motivated to send my words out into the great abyss of the world wide web, if there is no one reading them.
I have been told by a reliable source that there are people who are actually reading this blog, the quote actually was "they live for it." The fact that the visitor counter seems to be increasing seems to support this theory, however, I have just not accepted it yet. Why? You ask. Well I asked for people to leave comments, and I haven't heard from anyone including my parents!
So I have come to the conclusion that you all must think that China is still living in the stone age. For whatever other reason would you all not leave a few simple words? Well, I want to dissuade you from the notion. I can check the web and receive email from my phone, as well as, having internet access at every hotel I have stayed at this far.
To make it easier you may now leave anonymous comments, so you don't even have to register. So to review how to leave a comment, follow the following eight steps. Although you should always use extreme caution when typing many, many, many highly scientific studies have proven that there is no lasting effects or damage from leaving comments on a blog post. It is really simple, I promise.
1) At the bottom of the post is a little underlined word "comment," find it.
2) Now, click on it. A pop-up window will open.
3) In the box on the right under the heading "LEAVE YOUR COMMENT" write as short or long a message as you like, some examples include:
"Hi!"
"Thinking of you! Missing you!"
"Oooh, I didn't know that, but it is really interesting. Thanks for sharing."
"More photos please."
"Your post was so funny, I pee'd my pants laughing"
":)"
4) Sign "Your Name."
5) Type in the verification word, from the picture above, into the box below.
6) Choose your identity by choosing one of the check boxes. Either sign in with your Google or OpenID, leave your name/website URL, or choose anonymous.
7) Click the big orange button that says "PUBLISH YOUR POST"
8) Sit back and relax, and know that your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Love to You All!
Ashley - who has passed the 20 days in China mark and is a bit home sick.
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
I must have died and gone to heaven...
...or done something to shine God's favor on me (like enduring being sick yesterday morning) because the hotel we are staying at is absolutely wonderful.That is to say that th beds are not wood planks but soft and there are many Westwrn ammenities. Apparently when Chinese government officials (like the PM or President) come from Beijing to Qingdao they stay in this hotel. It is right on the sea.
Because of this not only did I get to take an actual shower (in most chinese homes and hotels the showers are makeshift with the entire bathroom serving as the shower basin. Thus, I am always worried I am going to flood the place and opt to use the handheld cababilities instead of letting the water rain down on me like we are used to in the west). Alas, this morning i had an actual shower for the first time in 2 weeks and I got to use soap that is not my shampoo, the rest of me actually smells different then my hair.
But this is not why I think I am in God's favor... When we arrived in the breakfast room spread amongst the usual Chinese breakfast wears of portiage (sp), many vegetables, noddles, rice, and stuffed buns there were fried eggs, ham, and sweet potatoes along with some fruit. Already my stomach was taking a sigh of relief as I went to find a table. But that was when the maricle happenned, my eyes fell on a toaster and a plate of white bread, sitting there next to it was a dish of strawberry jam and wait for it, wait for it... COFFEE!!!!!!
I really do feel like I am in heaven, even though I don't imagine that heaven is quite as grey and drizzly as the weather outside. Nonetheless, with normal western breakfast foods in my tummy I am one happy camper regardless.
On another note, to add to the list from yesterday the sea smells the same everywhere too!
From Qingdao in Shandong Province, this is Ashley signing off.
Because of this not only did I get to take an actual shower (in most chinese homes and hotels the showers are makeshift with the entire bathroom serving as the shower basin. Thus, I am always worried I am going to flood the place and opt to use the handheld cababilities instead of letting the water rain down on me like we are used to in the west). Alas, this morning i had an actual shower for the first time in 2 weeks and I got to use soap that is not my shampoo, the rest of me actually smells different then my hair.
But this is not why I think I am in God's favor... When we arrived in the breakfast room spread amongst the usual Chinese breakfast wears of portiage (sp), many vegetables, noddles, rice, and stuffed buns there were fried eggs, ham, and sweet potatoes along with some fruit. Already my stomach was taking a sigh of relief as I went to find a table. But that was when the maricle happenned, my eyes fell on a toaster and a plate of white bread, sitting there next to it was a dish of strawberry jam and wait for it, wait for it... COFFEE!!!!!!
I really do feel like I am in heaven, even though I don't imagine that heaven is quite as grey and drizzly as the weather outside. Nonetheless, with normal western breakfast foods in my tummy I am one happy camper regardless.
On another note, to add to the list from yesterday the sea smells the same everywhere too!
From Qingdao in Shandong Province, this is Ashley signing off.
My First Run-In wth the Zhongguo Jingcha
If you don't understand any Chinese than you should know that Zhongguo is China and Jingcha means police. Yes, my first run in with the Police in China. Don't worry obviously I lived to tell the tale.
As we passed through the toll into Qingdao and paid the 175 yuan toll, the car I was in was waived over to the mobile China police station, i.e., a tent with a table underneath. They looked at the driver's license and registration and when they saw a foreigner in the backseat asked to see my passport. We all got out of the car and another officer asked to see in the trunk.
He asked if I spoken any Chinese. I reponded "a little.". He asked if I was American, I responded in the affirmative. He asked if this was a visa for travelling, I said "dui, lvxing.". He wrote some stuff into a book including my namen the cars license number, passport and visa numbers, then handed me back my passport. The whole thing lasted five minutes and we were back on the road.
I suspected and my hosts confirmed that it is added security measures for the Olympics. For the sailing portion of the Games is being hosted in Qingdao. I say good for China to be proactive, I know that while I will be on guard myself when I attend the games it will make me feel a bit safer. For those that don't know in February the Chinese government announced that they arrested several individuals in Xinjiang in connection with an Olympic terrorist plot.
But tonight at least I am safe, I hope you and your families are as well.
Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone with SprintSpeed
As we passed through the toll into Qingdao and paid the 175 yuan toll, the car I was in was waived over to the mobile China police station, i.e., a tent with a table underneath. They looked at the driver's license and registration and when they saw a foreigner in the backseat asked to see my passport. We all got out of the car and another officer asked to see in the trunk.
He asked if I spoken any Chinese. I reponded "a little.". He asked if I was American, I responded in the affirmative. He asked if this was a visa for travelling, I said "dui, lvxing.". He wrote some stuff into a book including my namen the cars license number, passport and visa numbers, then handed me back my passport. The whole thing lasted five minutes and we were back on the road.
I suspected and my hosts confirmed that it is added security measures for the Olympics. For the sailing portion of the Games is being hosted in Qingdao. I say good for China to be proactive, I know that while I will be on guard myself when I attend the games it will make me feel a bit safer. For those that don't know in February the Chinese government announced that they arrested several individuals in Xinjiang in connection with an Olympic terrorist plot.
But tonight at least I am safe, I hope you and your families are as well.
Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone with SprintSpeed
Similarities and Differences
I have had several experiences during the last several days that I never imagined when I set out on this trip two weeks ago. Nevertheless, I have had to remind myself to not look this gift-horse in the mouth on more than one occasion, when my desire to do things for myself and be in control of the situation has clashed with the Chinese people's euthusiatic hospitable nature.
Chinese hospitality is a different dragon than the US version. I will admit sadly that it led to one confrontation in Tai'an, when I felt a cultural barrier was crossed to the point well passed where I deemed appropriate for the situation. In the end, I felt no choice but to leave. But if the situation in Tai'an ended on a somewhat sour note - a note that I very well wish it had not - it did teach me a very valuable lesson in Chinese generocity and hospitality. That is to say, Chinese hospitality is bottomless, even when you pull the rug out feom under them ir drop in unannounced.
Okay, so I haven't completely tested that theory (as I do make a halfway decent house guest), but I do think that Chinese hospitality is deeper than the American version.
I am never without my own English speaking guide even if she is only fifteen. And I have drank more beer while toasting then I thought possible without bursting. Nevermind the fact that the only time I have managed to pay for anything in the last couple days (and I have tried) was a 10 yuan key deposit and only because my host didn't have anything less than a 100 yuan note and I had a 10 handy, in the end it was only a deposit and I recieved it back! I guess I haven't paid for anything. Someone even paid for my hotel room one night after I had headed up to my room for the night.
I am currently staying with one of the three host families who have opened their doors to me since arriving in Jining - Liye's family, Emma's family and Anya's family, never mind Ben who has arranged this all for me. My dad would be happy to know that while in Jining I have not been out of anyone's sights... period.
These wonderful people have accompanied me up Taishan, to Qufu, Zoucheng, and Qingdao. They have taken me swimming and fishing (though not at the sametime). I have had traditional chinese instruments played for me and I've been properly introduced to Chinese pop music. They have taken me out out to eat, they have cooked for me, and they have taughted me how to make dumplings. In doing so they have introduced me to regional delicacies like Chicken toes; watermellon sushi; grasshoppers and other fried bugs, which I have eaten four; pea poposicles, which taste like green tea with frozen pea bits embedded; digua, a dish of sweet potatoes deepfried and covered in sugar; mazhe which is translated as gingilbi? Any clue anyone? it brown and goes on greenbeans; a fruit called well I can't remember but it is green and has a consistancy of a pear but on the inside it is like a tomato. And much, much more.
But for them showing me all that is unique I have learned that giggling and laughter transcend any language barrier. Pets know if you are an animal person. There are warm pee spots in all pools and soccer fans on all couches throughout the globe. Small kids preforming will always make you smile. The "are we there yet?" wine is universal. No matter where you are when your sick your parents bed is the best place of all, but no one can replace your parents. Medicine tastes bad, period. The fact that men don't like asking for directions and womed love of all things chocolate and ice cream is interwoven into the respective chromosomes. And nothing tastes better than home cooked food.
To finish with a quote from dinner... Your skin may be white and we may call our skin brown, but we drink the same beer.
That's all folks as the crazy pig likes to say. Just wanted to leave a note on my observations, I do promise to post about my trips to see Confucius and Menciucs as well as what a Chinese persons daily life looks like. Hope all is well back in the states.
Ash
P.S. If you picked up on it yes I had a bought of something, but it looks like I am over it. A mix of the hot nights, humid days, too much new food, probably a mouthful of bad water, and not sleeping well due to the wood plank like beds. Oh yeah and I am prone to migraines, but alas, I am well now! But if you would keep me in your thoughts and/or prayers I would appreciate it and I know my parents would too.
Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone with SprintSpeed
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