Tuesday, July 1, 2008
I must have died and gone to heaven...
Because of this not only did I get to take an actual shower (in most chinese homes and hotels the showers are makeshift with the entire bathroom serving as the shower basin. Thus, I am always worried I am going to flood the place and opt to use the handheld cababilities instead of letting the water rain down on me like we are used to in the west). Alas, this morning i had an actual shower for the first time in 2 weeks and I got to use soap that is not my shampoo, the rest of me actually smells different then my hair.
But this is not why I think I am in God's favor... When we arrived in the breakfast room spread amongst the usual Chinese breakfast wears of portiage (sp), many vegetables, noddles, rice, and stuffed buns there were fried eggs, ham, and sweet potatoes along with some fruit. Already my stomach was taking a sigh of relief as I went to find a table. But that was when the maricle happenned, my eyes fell on a toaster and a plate of white bread, sitting there next to it was a dish of strawberry jam and wait for it, wait for it... COFFEE!!!!!!
I really do feel like I am in heaven, even though I don't imagine that heaven is quite as grey and drizzly as the weather outside. Nonetheless, with normal western breakfast foods in my tummy I am one happy camper regardless.
On another note, to add to the list from yesterday the sea smells the same everywhere too!
From Qingdao in Shandong Province, this is Ashley signing off.
My First Run-In wth the Zhongguo Jingcha
As we passed through the toll into Qingdao and paid the 175 yuan toll, the car I was in was waived over to the mobile China police station, i.e., a tent with a table underneath. They looked at the driver's license and registration and when they saw a foreigner in the backseat asked to see my passport. We all got out of the car and another officer asked to see in the trunk.
He asked if I spoken any Chinese. I reponded "a little.". He asked if I was American, I responded in the affirmative. He asked if this was a visa for travelling, I said "dui, lvxing.". He wrote some stuff into a book including my namen the cars license number, passport and visa numbers, then handed me back my passport. The whole thing lasted five minutes and we were back on the road.
I suspected and my hosts confirmed that it is added security measures for the Olympics. For the sailing portion of the Games is being hosted in Qingdao. I say good for China to be proactive, I know that while I will be on guard myself when I attend the games it will make me feel a bit safer. For those that don't know in February the Chinese government announced that they arrested several individuals in Xinjiang in connection with an Olympic terrorist plot.
But tonight at least I am safe, I hope you and your families are as well.
Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone with SprintSpeed
Similarities and Differences
Chinese hospitality is a different dragon than the US version. I will admit sadly that it led to one confrontation in Tai'an, when I felt a cultural barrier was crossed to the point well passed where I deemed appropriate for the situation. In the end, I felt no choice but to leave. But if the situation in Tai'an ended on a somewhat sour note - a note that I very well wish it had not - it did teach me a very valuable lesson in Chinese generocity and hospitality. That is to say, Chinese hospitality is bottomless, even when you pull the rug out feom under them ir drop in unannounced.
Okay, so I haven't completely tested that theory (as I do make a halfway decent house guest), but I do think that Chinese hospitality is deeper than the American version.
I am never without my own English speaking guide even if she is only fifteen. And I have drank more beer while toasting then I thought possible without bursting. Nevermind the fact that the only time I have managed to pay for anything in the last couple days (and I have tried) was a 10 yuan key deposit and only because my host didn't have anything less than a 100 yuan note and I had a 10 handy, in the end it was only a deposit and I recieved it back! I guess I haven't paid for anything. Someone even paid for my hotel room one night after I had headed up to my room for the night.
I am currently staying with one of the three host families who have opened their doors to me since arriving in Jining - Liye's family, Emma's family and Anya's family, never mind Ben who has arranged this all for me. My dad would be happy to know that while in Jining I have not been out of anyone's sights... period.
These wonderful people have accompanied me up Taishan, to Qufu, Zoucheng, and Qingdao. They have taken me swimming and fishing (though not at the sametime). I have had traditional chinese instruments played for me and I've been properly introduced to Chinese pop music. They have taken me out out to eat, they have cooked for me, and they have taughted me how to make dumplings. In doing so they have introduced me to regional delicacies like Chicken toes; watermellon sushi; grasshoppers and other fried bugs, which I have eaten four; pea poposicles, which taste like green tea with frozen pea bits embedded; digua, a dish of sweet potatoes deepfried and covered in sugar; mazhe which is translated as gingilbi? Any clue anyone? it brown and goes on greenbeans; a fruit called well I can't remember but it is green and has a consistancy of a pear but on the inside it is like a tomato. And much, much more.
But for them showing me all that is unique I have learned that giggling and laughter transcend any language barrier. Pets know if you are an animal person. There are warm pee spots in all pools and soccer fans on all couches throughout the globe. Small kids preforming will always make you smile. The "are we there yet?" wine is universal. No matter where you are when your sick your parents bed is the best place of all, but no one can replace your parents. Medicine tastes bad, period. The fact that men don't like asking for directions and womed love of all things chocolate and ice cream is interwoven into the respective chromosomes. And nothing tastes better than home cooked food.
To finish with a quote from dinner... Your skin may be white and we may call our skin brown, but we drink the same beer.
That's all folks as the crazy pig likes to say. Just wanted to leave a note on my observations, I do promise to post about my trips to see Confucius and Menciucs as well as what a Chinese persons daily life looks like. Hope all is well back in the states.
Ash
P.S. If you picked up on it yes I had a bought of something, but it looks like I am over it. A mix of the hot nights, humid days, too much new food, probably a mouthful of bad water, and not sleeping well due to the wood plank like beds. Oh yeah and I am prone to migraines, but alas, I am well now! But if you would keep me in your thoughts and/or prayers I would appreciate it and I know my parents would too.
Sent from my BlackBerry® smartphone with SprintSpeed
Thursday, June 26, 2008
One mountain, One river, & One saint
If you speak to a person in the south, they will claim 'a myriad of mountains, rivers, and geniuses'. I climbed one of these myriads of mountains last week, a mountain that overlooks Guangzhou called Baiyuanshan (White Cloud Mountain). It took me two hours to reach the top from the midway point, walking on a widely paved two lane road. I caught the top of the mountain just in time to view part of the sunset (see the first two pictures on the right) and then descend all the way down the mountain in the dark, getting bitten all the way. The view from the top was amazing, the jury is still out, though, on if it was worth all the mosquito bites.
But if you ask someone in Shandong province they will smugly say that Shandong has 'one mountain, one river, and one saint.' Needlessly implying that they have the last word in China on each: Taishan, the Yellow River, and Confucius.
Taishan is one of the most revered peaks in Chinese consciousness.
Whether because it formed from Pan Gu's head or because it is situated in the east, which is representative of spring and birth in the Chinese culture, Taishan is the most revered of peaks in Taoism, but is also revered in Buddhism and Confucianism as well. Further, it is believed that heaven would not allow an unworthy ruler to ascend to the summit of the mountain, so a successful climb denoted divine approval. In China's 3,000 years of history many emperors and rulers have attempted to climb the mountain adding to its rich historical legacy. 5 emperors were successful in their climbs, and during the Qing dynasty 17th century to 1911, hundreds of thousands have climbed the 1545 meters to the top. But these numbers pale in its modern popularity, on the May long-weekend in 2006, it is said 190,000 people climbed the mountains 6,666 steps (see third picture on right).
In the paths of all who came before me, I too set out on this gruelling climb, fortunate enough to meet up with several American's and their English speaking host. Heidi and Nora were both middle school teachers visiting a school in Jining. They were in China for just under a month and were sadly leaving the next day for Beijing. I must say the climb was much more enjoyable because I climbed with them (see group picture on the right, we were at the start of the climb).
The day began at the Dai Temple, where many emperors stayed
In the evening I wandered the local night market with a junior named Phoebe, who was majoring in English at the Tai'an Agricultural University. I had some sort of fish on a stick, as well as kettle corn. Both were surprisingly good. I was amazed at the different wares for sale, Phoebe said that Night Markets are common throughout many Chinese cities. Think of them as farmers markets taking place at night and selling everything from books, to pots and pans, food, electrical lights, shoes, and everything else in between. There was even a man with a monkey performing tricks!
The next morning I took the 9:13 train out of town. I was greatly impressed with the Chinese peoples' ability to Que, a large improvement from my stay in Beijing 2 years ago. However, when the train doors did not line up correctly with the pre-formed rows waiting on the platform all hope was lost and people went running and crowded the doors.
While I don't have any stories yet for the One River, I do however have many for the One Saint, but I will leave those for my next post. As well as a post on Chinese lifestyle and Chinese hospitality. More in good time, tomorrow looks like it will be a down day in the morning, so I will try as I know that the blog went dry for most of the week.
Love to all back in the states. Dad, Mom, Nate, love you all!
NOTE to old friends, new friends, and family: I know someone out in the great wide blog-o-sphere has been reading my blog since I have had over 50 posts since I last checked. I would love to hear from you (even if it is just you mom and dad), simply click on the "Comments" link at the bottom of the post and leave a couple of words.
Monday, June 23, 2008
Traditions, Modernity, and Shamian
Today the now decaying colonial architecture remains. The restored Catholic church sits perched along the main boulevard, the American consulate resides at one end and the White Swan hotel (probably the most famous hotel in Guangzhou if not Guangdong) rises above the .3 sq km island. Two one-way roads, which really are more like pedestrian avenues are flanked by trees and run down the center of the island on either side of playgrounds, gardens, and walkways.
Bronze statues depicting the island's history stand motionless in front of historical buildings in various states of upkeep and amongst the activity that is many Chinese people playing badminton in the park and foreigners pushing their adopted Chinese babies in strollers. Only the occasional neon sign glowing from the cross-streets, alert the traveler that it is the 20th century and not the 18th. Today Shamian Island remains much like it was one-hundred and fifty years ago, a sequestration from Guangzhou. It remains a sleepy southern town in the middle of a growing dragon.
But Guangzhou is not the completely modernized city that the Chinese government would have you believe it is. Yes, walking off the island you are immediately met with a six lane highway, but if the dilapidation of the island shows times past, than the ordure of decreption on the other side of the freeway will make you wonder is indoor plumping was ever really invented.
I first ventured into this area on Sunday, when the island's pharmacy was closed and I was minutes from tearing my legs off due to the 40 or so bug bites that covered my calves. Today, I walked through this area again and this time I really looked as I walked. I wondered about these people's lives, I wondered if the earthquake had hit Guangzhou instead of Chendgu would these building still be standing. I wondered about the filth and grim, the fact that there were children not wearing shoes, and windows with no glass. I wondered if this was really poverty, and then I realized that this was not as bad as it gets in China.
Guangzhou can quite easily be classified as the economic center of the Pearl River Delta and combined with Shenzhen creates the heart of China's leading commercial and manufacturing region. The 2007 GDP was over $100 billion US dollars and per capita with approx. 6 million urban dwellers this factors out to bt the sixth highest (among 695 cities) in China at about $12,00/year. This success is attributed to the reforms of Deng Xiaoping, who came to power in the late 1970s, which led to rapid economic growth due to the city's close proximity to Hong Kong and access to the Pearl River. If this is "rough" here (and I do believe that other places in the city have it worse) then I wonder how it is in cities and towns who have not experienced as much economic growth.
To be honest, these sights have shocked me and I have found myself not wanting to leave the security of Shamian. Instead I find myself reading Three Kingdoms at Starbucks and watching Chinese in the park. I have found myself without words for posting to this blog. I don't think I have ever had an idealistic view of China, but something about the raw pain of this country has struck me over the last couple of days while staying in Guangzhou.
A week ago I set out to see the "real China" and for me, I thought that meant seeing the "traditional China," which hadn't yet been touched by the modernity of the west. But today I am conscious that maybe "traditional" isn't all that it is cracked up to be after all. Just maybe I am starting to see the arguements about modernity differently.
Friday, June 20, 2008
Getting To & Staying in Guangzhou
The bus took off from Wen Chai district's China Travel Services' office on Hennsey Street in Hong Kong. The ticket was only 100 HKD! The bus picked up at a couple other stops and then we headed to the China Border. After taking my carry-on bag off the bus with me at immigration I became worried that my backpack stored under the bus would not meet me on the other side of immigration. But the worry went away for the briefest of moments when they stamped the departing stamp into my passport. I felt like I was walking on air in the make shift space between two countries.
Then reality stepped in and I realized that all I could remember about the bus I had been on was that it was blue, the problem was there were multiple blue buses! But then, a chinese man started waving to me, I pointed to myself and lifted my eyebrow and he nodded his head and motioned for me to come. As I finally sat on the bus, I realized that when I had first boarded the bus in Hong Kong they had stuck a bright orange circle on my shirt. I had thought it was tacky when they had done it and quickly dismissed it, but now I was so extremely grateful for that little orange round circle.
I got back on the bus and we only traveled for about a minute and a half when the bus stopped again. This time for customs INTO China. Everyone stood up immediately and I too followed. I was a little trepidacious and afraid once again that I was going to lose my bag at some point. The driver motioned me around the side and sure enough I needed to pick up the bag. I have no clue why this thought of picking up my bag had weighed so heavily on my heart during the last stop, but I was so glad that it had. I once again entered the building and I stood in the long line for visitors. I passed through without a problem, the customs official took a good long look at my passport photo and then he stamped my passport. I let out the breath that I hadn't realized I had been holding. I had had so many visa issues up until this point that I was worried that something was going to go wrong, but low and behold it did not.
I had tried to go on this trip last summer and it did not happen for reasons outside of my control. I was worried that with so many problems planning my trip this time around that maybe it was not meant to be either. But I have been reaffirmed that this is God's plan and he is in control and not me. I am trying very hard not to plan things to a "T," but going with the flow and relaxing a little. But somehow the confucision of not speaking or understanding Cantonese has brought out the traits in me of needing to be in control.
In Hong Kong, as well as Guangzhou, Cantonese is the common language and while I can get the just of signs I often find it disorientating. For the most part I did not say a word on the bus, until a little boy a couple rows ahead of me, smiled shyly and waved. I asked in Mandarin what was his name and he just looked at me. His mom who was sitting across from me had to tell him I was speaking Putonghua (Mandarin - or the People's Language). We smiled at each other, but the section of our bus once again grew quiet and I didn't speak anymore - a bit disappointed.
Finally after 4 hours we arrived in Guangzhou, rush hour was a bear. As soon as I got off the bus I was accosted by multiple gentleman either A) trying to offer me a hotel room at a "good price," or B) asking if I wanted to exchange money. I wanted to do neither and no matter how hard I told them no (Wo bu yao - I don't want, wo bu xuyao - I don't need, wo yijing you yi ge- I already have one), they still followed. For the first time on this trip I did not want to be the foreigner. I felt lost and I just wanted to slip into the backgound so I could orient myself without the entire world staring.
But at the same time I was elated, here I was in China after so much work to get here. I had read that there was a great cheap guest house of Shamian Island, so I headed toward the Subway. After consulting the map in the guidebook against the subway map, I found a stop that seemed to be nearby. I then went to the ticket machine and bought a ticket for 4 yuan. It spit out a little plastic chip and I was confused with what I was suppose to do with it.
Finally I placed the chip on the magnetic strip and the door opened. The little chips work like smartcards do on the metro in DC, now I felt a bit better. But rather stupid at the same time. It took me a while to orient myself in which direction I needed to be going on what lines, but after consulting the guidebook as a reference map and with the help of an English speaking Chinese student, I made it to my destination, Shamian Island.
The island is a holdover from the French and the British, who each controlled half of the 1/2 mile long island. It is now the home of the US Consulate, but more on the island tomorrow. I checked in to the Guangzhou Youth Hostel after being lost for a bit on this very small island (again feeling disoriented and a little slow intellectually), but finally I had made it!
The hostel is very nice compared to the last two I stayed at. I have a bed in a dormitory room with 10 beds, which feel like they are a piece of wood. I met a guy from somewhere in the states, and we talked a bit aout the legitimacy of the Chinese Government and the potental for the fruition of a democratic government. He shared his Chinese crackers which taste a bit like Ritz and I shared my trail mix. Both were a treat and since I had been starving, it constitued my dinner. I was simply too exhausted to go out at the moment. We talked about going out to a bar later and I told him to let me nap for a couple minutes first. When he finally came back, I said I was going to stay and off the rest of the hostellers went. The room was blessed quiet and I slept for 3 hours. I woke sweaty and decided I really needed a shower! I took one in the small bathroom, but now I was awake if not more comfortable. I pulled out Three Kingdoms which is a Chinese epic novel and started reading I made it 30 pages in, before putting on my iPod and drifting off to sleep. I woke up periodically thoughout the night and at 6:30 said enough, and got up.
I wondered out onto the island and started my day, which I will leave for my post tonight. I hope all is going well in the states. My love and best wishes to you all!
Thursday, June 19, 2008
Getting a move on out!
Well I am off to Guangdong. I was originally going to stay in Hong Kong longer, but as I am going to return to Hong Kong at the end of my trip for several days, I feel as if I should get a move on early. There are buses departing for Guangdong hourly from near the Wan Chai metro station, cost: 100 HKD (~$20).
I went out with some fellow hostel-goers last night (Alex from Australia/England, Melissa who is currently living in Shanghai, Mo who is from Scotland and another guy from Canada) and got in about 2am. Surprisingly I woke up early this morning at 9:30, and decided I was over Hong Kong, though the company has been great!
The Olympics in Hong Kong
Hong Kong is home to to the Equestrian portion of the Olympics. This morning I was reading in the China Southern Post that 40,000 tickets to the events became available through a company called China Travel Services. These tickets are only available in Hong Kong, you MUST come in person to one of their offices to buy them.
Low and behold, I happen to be in Hong Kong, so first thing this morning I stopped into their office in Central Hong Kong and bought tickets to two events, a final event (where medals are awarded) on August 14 and a dressage event on August 17. I bought two tickets, so if any of you want to fly out for the games let me know!
On another note, the picture above was taken with a new lens I purchased for my camera, a Nikon 18-200mm. My dad knows how long I have had my eye on this particular lens. I traded in my two lens that span this same spectrum a 18-55mm and a 55-200mm. It was just two otherwise. Final cost for the new lens 5,000 HKD. This translates to 659 U.S. Dollars, this is roughly the price of a used lens in the US, so I think I got a pretty good deal.
DELAYED!!!
Currently I am sitting on my Seattle flight to San Francisco, on the tarmac in San Fran. While we landed 25 minutes ago we have moved gates three times and have yet to park at a gate. The pilot just came on to tell us they are moving us back to our original gate, WTF? Anyways, this delay is on top of the hour plus delay out of Seattle for weather. Whether my Hong Kong flight was delayed too, I don't yet know, but I am pretty sure that I just saw my Hong Kong flight take off.
I am challenging myself to look at this as an adventure and not fret about it. If you know me your know that I like to plan to a "T," so this is a big challenge for me. It's like a choose your own adventure novel. To travel to Hong Kong turn to page 72, or for travel to Chinatown in San Francisco turn to page 33. Here's hoping it's Hong Kong.
UPDATE #1
Looks like it is page 33 after all and lucky me, I get to spend the night in San Francisco before hoping to LA in the morning for a 1:00pm flight to Hong Kong. In the mean time I am going to try and find my bag.
UPDATE #2
The customer service representative put in a meter for the airline to pull my bag at 2:00, however when I finally left the airport at 11:15, they had still not located yet, but I was told that someone was actively looking, so I headed back to the hotel to get some shut eye. When I came back at 6:45 the next morning, no one had found my bag yet, then came along Oscar. I am convinced that Oscar has special powers, because after 15 minutes of looking, Oscar found my bag!!!
After throwing out a couple bottles of liquid, I opted to carry my bag on board. I am convinced had I not spent all night pushing for my bag, it never would have made my Hong Kong flight, because it never would have made it to LA, when they found it my bag was sitting in the International Baggage Area.
I learned a lesson though, take a picture of your bag before you check it. It did wonders in helping Oscar find my bag!
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Moving on Up... Moving on Out!
It's official class are over, finals completed, the campus is deserted, the only people left are graduating seniors and school administrators. Later this week proud family and friends will flock to campus. Many of my friends are graduating in the coming days. Forgetting for a moment that I, myself will be no where near the intersection of O and 37th streets that mark the gates of campus, these people who I have laughed with and cried for, these people who have become my family will be setting off on journeys of their own. I won't be able to call them up and say "Let's go get a beer at Tombs," instead they will be frequenting saki houses as they teach English in Japan or hanging out late into the night at anyone of the many clubs that dot the island of Manhattan. One has even gotten a job doing modeling... okay, okay... she is going to be doing computer modeling, but Pam for all the joking know that I couldn't be prouder to call you my friend.
This week is filled with bittersweet thoughts. I can't tell you how excited I am to pack my bag and climb on a plane to cross the ocean and begin walking the streets of China. But tonight I wasn't packing my backpack, I was packing up my apartment. There was no excitement, no anticipation. Instead I went through all the old mail I had hastily tossed into my desk as I ran off to class. I sorted through the papers, tests, and notes that marked the passage of another year of college gone. I took my pictures off the walls and packed my worldly possessions into boxes. Tonight is most likely the last night I will sleep under this roof, surrounded by these walls and as I lay in bed typing this I realized that I am not quite ready to let go, I am not quite ready to close my eyes and let this last night float away in a dream.
This was my first apartment, my very first truly mine apartment. While I may have had to share it with a handful of spider crickets and it could feel like a deep dark cave on the sunniest of days I will be sad to see it go. Tomorrow I will pack my boxes into the car and after I hand over the keys on Thursday, with tears staining my eyes, I will take one more step towards the beginning of this journey.
Saturday, March 1, 2008
The Belated Holiday-2007 Recap
Happy Holidays from the Nation’s Capital! I wanted to take this opportunity to share with you moments from my life this year. For this has been an exciting year for me, as I have had many new experiences and created some wonderful memories along the way. The spring semester was marked by the continuation of my study of Chinese and everything China. In addition to participating in a graduate Chinese History course, I countined my internship at National Geographic and began working in the Science Library at Georgetown.
I hope the year has treated you as well as it has me. With much love,
Ashley Howard.